Showing posts with label Surf Photo's by X-Man. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Surf Photo's by X-Man. Show all posts

Sunday, January 5, 2014

2013: My Year in Review

Eric Cedeno May 2013

At the end of 2011 I wasn’t feeling so good and I found one obvious reason, I hadn’t been surfing much. The more I surfed the happier I become. So I started tracking the days, surf locations, boards etc to remind myself of the good times I’ve had. It also served as a reminder to me to surf more often.  In 2013 my Total Days Surfed was  61. I will admit that 2013 was a good improvement over last year (2012) were my Total Days Surfed was only 44. I surf 81 times in 61 days during 2013, but mostly on the weekends.



January (Days Surfed 0)

I didn’t surf at all in January. Actually I had been sick since December and was still having a hard time recovering. I figured I should start eating healthier and hoped that would help turn things around for me. I wrote about it: How Bruce Lee Influenced My Hunger for Change... By Eric Cedeno

February (Days Surfed: 2)


Eric Cedeno February 2013
In late February I was trying to figure out what why I was so edgy and angry. It turns out the last time I had surfed was on 12-2-12. It was no wonder I was a wreck. I went back and looked at my notes for the year and tried to remember those good times out in the water that I felt like I was forgetting. I put in the effort and got two days in at my home break. It felt like a good start.

March (Days Surfed: 4)
Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
I surfed on the first day March and then again towards the end of the month. I always dig it when X-Man takes pictures of me surfing. I always try and make the best out of whatever the surf has to offer and every once in a while I’ll get X-Man to capture a few pictures of me surfing.

April (Days Surfed: 8)
San Pedro 4-26-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno 
I got six days in at my home break and pretty much spend all the time riding my longboards. Looking back now it seems like I was gaining momentum by doubling the days I’d surfed each month. I even made a few trips down to San Pedro just to stack a few rocks.

May (31 days per month, Days Surfed: 15)
Eric Cedeno May 2013
Eric Cedeno May 2013
I surfed the most days of the year in May. I also surfed the most consecutive days in a row 10 days (5/24 thru 6/2). I know 10 days in a row doesn’t really sound that great, but it is a huge improvement from last year (2012) where most consecutive days surfed was only 3 days (5/1 thru 5/3). I spent most of time at my home break and rode a wide range of boards, I even did some bodysurfing.

June (Days Surfed: 6)
Sunset June 2013
I spend a lot of time at 26th street on my 9’0” longboard and would sometimes ride my 6’10” mini log. On 6/21 I caught wave of the day and got 3 in and outs (almost 4) on same wave overhead wave off the drain. I also got a few big waves out at Sunset Cliffs with a few friends.

July (Days Surfed: 4)


Manhattan July 2013
I had 6 surf sessions in 4 days. It was good practice, but overall it just didn’t compare to the previous months.

August (Days Surfed: 10)

Eric Cedeno August 2013
I spend some time surfing the east coast. I was able to sample a good range of surf in Cocoa Beach, FL (4 points). I picked up my longboard at Core Surf Shop. I asked if they would buy it back at the end if my trip and the said yes (minus $100 bucks or so). I was really stoked to ride a board that I know very well. cocoa beach pier (south side) longboard 2-3+. I did a quick surf check at the pier and it looked really fun out, sunny not much wind yet and pretty good shape. I called up my friend Lisa and she agreed to take some pictures of me surfing and meet me down at the pier with her canon 7d and big lenses. I put 3 hours of quarters in the parking meter just in case I got caught up having fun and loose track if time. The water was still warm but not as hot as it had been and I paddled out next to pier and sat in the line up with the other two surfers. I caught a good left and ran the nose and was dialed in after my first wave. I spent the next two hours catching waves and paddling back out. It was the most fun I think I've had all trip. Lisa shot photos from the beach and along the side of the pier- Good times!

September (Days Surfed: 2)


I got 3 local surf sessions in just two days. I took a good look at Mode of Transportation for Surf Exploration and now I really want a VW T5 California Van.

October (Days Surfed: 6)

Eric Cedeno October 2013
I scored a pretty amazing trip to Hawaii. I think the last time I surfed Oahu was about 15 years ago so I was very excited to get back home to Hawaii. I’m not really from Hawaii, but every time I leave Hawaii I feel like I’m leaving home. Maybe one day I’ll just stay home, in Hawaii for as long as it takes. I hooked up with a few close friends and surfed a few spots that I didn’t know existed. Also
caught a few remarkable waves. It definitely ranks up there as one of the best trips to Hawaii I ever had.

November (Days Surfed: 1)
Eric Cedeno November 2013
It’s always hard to get back into cold water after surfing somewhere tropical like Hawaii. Plus a few of my friends were getting bumped by sharks and I don't like that idea at all. Then I got a call from a friend who got a call from his friend that passed the word on down the line about a wherehouse wetsuit sale on the last day of the sale. I lucked out a scored a few suits. I got a new Vapor 4/3 and didn’t mind testing it out in the small walled surf. Wearing a new wetsuit in the water for the first time is like being stuck in traffic in a brand new car with heated seats and a great stereo. Somehow it just makes the things that usually annoy you seem far off. I had a good time and I think this is probably the best wetsuit I’ve ever had, and I’ve had lots over the years!

December (Days Surfed: 3)

December seemed like I had to work pretty hard at making the best of what I had. I got a few local surf sessions in and had a pretty good time enjoying the unseasonably hot Christmas weather. I really do love the SouthBay, it’s one of the few places in the USA that hit 80 degrees (F) on Christmas day. The water even warmed up a little to 58 degrees (F). I did score some awesome surf gear that I'm sure will prepare me for the Zombie Apocalypse.


Monday, March 25, 2013

Sunday Sunday Sunday Surf Surf Surf With X-Man the Great! 3-24-13... By Eric Cedeno

I could tell today just wasn't as good as yesterday when I was standing at the top of the hill to check it out, but there were three reasons that made me want to paddle out. (1) It was nice and sunny with just a few people out surfing, (2) I remembered to bring the new 6'4" Lost board that I haven't ridden yet and the one that sealed the deal was (3) I had my own Surf Photographer with me "X-Man the Great!"

Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno
 I had four boards in my Honda Element (1) 7'10" Noserider, 7'4" Hybrid, 6'10" mini log and the new 6'4" Lost board. I grabbed both the 6'10" mini log and the new 6'4" Lost board and headed down to the sand to suit up while X-man set up the photo gear. He was using a Canon 7D on a tripod and really captured the day. The surf was all over the place and it was hard to be in the right spot at the right time. Then I'd look down the line and see a good one and I knew more would come.

Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man 
I pretty much had the place to my self. I know there was two or three other people out there, but there was plenty of room for everyone...
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
 The back wash was really heavy and sometimes it would really give you a kicking. I managed to pull this one off and made it all the way in...
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
 Another nice wave calling me over there...
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
 I rode the new lost board for about an hour then switched over to the 6'10" just to take the PEPSI Challenge. All in all I had a good time and was stoked to finally ride the new Lost board. It was super fast and felt good. The 6'10" made it easier to get into the wave earlier, but it was harder to duck dive (I knew that was going to happen). I'm really looking forward to trying it out on some better shaped waves soon. Hopefully I'll have X-man the Great there to take some more pictures of me in action... I'll keep you posted!