Thursday, November 25, 2021

Sometimes I surf with my back to the world


 “Sometimes I surf with my back to the world.” @nobadtides


I’ve been going through some really heavy life events. I have a torn knee injury that put a major halt to my surfing (and overall well being) since may 2021, that and other stuff that I don’t want to talk about. It’s been really rough for me the last few years.

One of the best things that has happened for me is the surge in friends reaching out, reconnecting and most recently getting me back in the water with a mobilizing knee brace over my wetsuit.

My buddy drove up from San Diego the other day and I tested out surfing with a knee brace on and it worked really well (or better than I thought).

Then today the planets realigned and I got to surf with my surf photographer friends and that has a way of lifting my stoke factor (my happiness). Thank you all that have added value to my life (please keep doing that).
❤️🙏❤️

📷 by @threedoginit



I think I met @threedoginit back in January 2016 (I think)... I found this shot of me below that he took back then (January 2016)... An oldie but goodie....




Saturday, November 20, 2021

Eat Your Vegetables #13 - Health Conscious Cholos | David Lopez



When I was a kid I didn't like to eat my vegetables. At the time I didn't see a need for them. I used to joke to my mom that I would catch up on eating all my vegetables at our next Thanksgiving dinner which of course was months away. I understand now that my mom wanted me to be healthy and vegetables are good for me. This segment is about eating your vegetables, well mentally. The vegetables that I'll be dishing out to you are for your own good. It's a dose of getting exposed to something that might be new to most of you, even outside of the usual surf culture. It's ok if you don't like it, but like my mom said,"at least give it a try before next Thanksgiving."

Ok I gotta keep it real here... well real funny! Check it out:

Health Conscious Cholos | David Lopez

The Cholos are back! This time they have all become health conscious and it’s getting on Jamie’s nerves. Thanks for watching! Follow David Lopez: Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/davidlopezf... Twitter: https://mobile.twitter.com/davidlopez... Snapchat: @davidandtea Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/davidlopezfilms/

Thursday, November 18, 2021

Best Surfing Videos of the Week [#68]


A little video to get you started.... 

Best Surfing Videos of the Week [#68]


NobodySurf : Surfing Videos

30 Surf Videos of the Week selected by NobodySurf Watch the full edit version of each video on the playlist below. Subscribe to @NobodySurf : Surfing Videos for constant surfing video updates. (#68 November 16, 2021) ✔️Watch Full Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rLr6... 📼 Kookapinto Shapes - Flying Chicken Visuals #2 [15min] Corey Colapinto / Tommy Witt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-l7c... 📼 Let it Simmer [8min] Mikey February Presented by Channel Islands Surfboards Produced by Devon Howard Filmed by Alex Kilauano / Sean Lesh Edited by Alex Kilauano https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pnD7... 📼 MALIBU MASTERCLASS | Meet Your Instructors, Harrison Roach & Nathan Strom [4min] Harrison Roach / Nathan Strom A film by Alex Kilauano https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebyBt... 📼 Air Camp with Sky Brown and Erin Brooks! [13min] Jackson Dorian / Erin Brooks / Luke Swanson Filmed by Rob Henson https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oyDi... 📼 No Straight Lines // Asher Pacey [9min] Asher Pacey Presented by RVCA A film by Dan Scott https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4mMi... 📼 LAVA SPACE - WILLIAM ALIOTTI [4min] William Aliotti A film by Manuel Claudeville-Morell https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CApO-... 📼 Lost Track Atlantic Episode 4 - Final Surf Section [3min] Torren Martyn Presented by needessentials https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLma4... 📼 Harrison Roach // National Park // Noosa [1min] Harrison Roach A film by William de King https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtwDc... 📼 Crazy Air Drop at XXL Giant Uluwatu - RAWFILES - 01/AUG/2021 [7min] Fim by Balint Hambalko https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtwDc... 📼 CI Mid & CI Fish [3min] Matt Bennett A film by TVD Productions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJWD2... 📼 TOBLOB [19min] Toby Mossop / Liam O'Brien Filmed by Dave Fox Edited by Nick Colclough / Beren Hall https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXtiO... 📼 Cokes, Maldives | RAW DAYS [12min] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylvkN... Footage by Bruno Tessari 📼 CVRRENT // Ep. 50 // JJ Wessels [4min] JJ Wessels Presented by CVRRENT A film by TJ Thran https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6KJ3... 📼 30 BARRELS - ONE SESSION l ALL DAY DYLAN [5min] Dylan Wilcoxen Presented by Kandui Resort https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TE74y... 📼 Surfing San Diego and SCORING the "California Waikiki" !!! Kalani Robb / Eric Koston Presented by BEEFS T.V. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2CuR... 📼 Dane Gudauskas - Surfing California [1min] Dane Gudauskas A film by Nate Cox https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_-7T... 📼 "FREE RANGE" [5min] Saxon Wilson Presented by RARE VISUALS A film by Liv Williams https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FotT2... 📼 Stephanie Gilmore - 33 Waves [11min] Stephanie Gilmore A film by Shane Blue https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zMxg... 📼 CLAY MARZO SURFING THE 54 SPECIAL IN MAUI [1min] Clay Marzo Presented by CATCH SURF Filmed by Leilani Zerkle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P42Cb... 📼 Through the Coastlines [2min] Tom Morat A film by William de King https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKM5c... 📼 OWEN KAESTNER 88 SURFBOARDS [1min] Owen Kaestner Presented by Full Moon Surf Club A film by JD Stroud https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uu_0d... 📼 "La Muerte" [6min] Matthew Vasquez Presented by Oahu Surf Films Directed by Ramon Brockington https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQEbJ... 📼 Kalani Ball - An Introduction [1min] Kalani Ball Presented by O'Neill Australia A film by Sam Brumby https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh7oR... 📼 Finless is more ; ) [7min] Cam Scott Filmed by Nick Banneh / Surferly / Dan Wilkinson / Toby Nicol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMTnU... 📼 Playa Grande, Costa Rica with Colin Moran | RAW DAYS [11min] Colin Moran Footage by Matt Tromberg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMQ8E... 📼 Summer Days | Hawaii [1min] Filmed by Kayla Carlisle Edited by Evan Campbell https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doumj... 📼 LATE DUST BOWLS [4min] Jonathan Gubbins Filmed by Kirfa Lens / Budiman / Bombom & Tojal https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faCxR... 📼 CVRRENT // Ep. 48 // Thad Chappell [3min] Thad Chappell Presented by CVRRENT Filed by TJ Thran / Will Simons https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_i_M... 📼 Agujero Sagrado | Pedro Lemos [8min] Pedro Lemos Produced by Mateus Prior https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQIv0... 📼 Uluwatu, Bali | RAW DAYS [10min] Footage by Balint Hambalko https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yG9sE...

Tuesday, December 29, 2020

Sandbagging Jimmy Chin.... And getting that first barrel!


 I love this short film! If you are new to surfing (or new-ish) then you must watch this wonderful short film about Jimmy Chin getting his first barrel. 

YETI Presents: Sandbagging Jimmy Chin

By most anyone’s standards, Jimmy has done it all: climbed and skied Everest, crossed Chang Tang Plateau on foot, and won an Academy Award. But when he’s asked if there is anything he still wants to do in his life, his response is “get barreled.” With the help of renowned surfers Mark Healey, Jon Rose, Jeff Johnson, and Keith and Dan Malloy, Jimmy heads into the biggest waves of his life to find his barrel moment. Directing team of: Dan Malloy, Keith Malloy, Jeff Johnson, Scott Ballew, Jimmy Chin, Taylor Johns, Mark Healey Producers: Taylor Johns and Brett Williams Edited by: Andrew Schoneberger Director of Photography: Erin Fienblatt Editor: Andrew Schoneberger Assistant Editor: Tate Larrick Music By: Todd Hannigan, Nick Coventry, Weeed Sound Design & Mix: Todd Hannigan At Brotheryn Studios Still Photographer: Jeff Johnson Color Grading: Clinton K. Hollister | Arlington Peak



Wednesday, December 23, 2020

Surfing BIG Waves! What's it really like? w/ John John Florence (Hawaii)

 

This short film really captures the feelings of over coming the fear of surfing big waves. Check it out!

Surfing BIG Waves! What's it really like? w/ John John Florence (Hawaii)

Koa Smith gives an in-depth breakdown of an outer reef big wave surf session with John John Florence. From getting caught inside, to water safety and conquering fears, get an inside look and more in this exciting video! Be the first to see our new merch: https://www.smithbrothershawaii.com/p... Special thanks to Erik Knutson and Parallel Sea for providing the footage for this episode.

Craziest SANDBAR In The WORLD!... you tell me....Is it?

 

This is a great series of short videos from Brett Barley. Check it out:

Craziest SANDBAR In The WORLD!

--Season 2 : Episode 45-- Cape Point out in Buxton, NC is one of the most special places in the world. From a right point, to a left point, to A-Frame shorebreak wedges... It is one of the most rare of waves when it sets up just right, because even then it is usually short lived. Cape Hatteras is shaped the way it is, along with the pinnacle of Cape Point, due to the Labrador Current and Gulf Stream current colliding directly offshore. Is there a more dynamic sandbar in the world?!


The Endless Summer II (the full movie on youtube)

 


I must have seen this movie over a hundred times! Such a classic and a wonderful adventure chasing waves around the world. Check it out:

The Endless Summer II

The Endless Summer II