I can't help but think about how far I've come since last years Ratopia Charity Surf contest. I went from being broken and recovering from multiple life threatening injuries to the most fit I've been since high school. I put in over 700 ocean miles in between surfing and prone paddling in 2025, and thats more that I did for the last 8 years combined! Needless to say the last few years have been the hardest with life altering physical injuries that put me in the ICU more than once. Plus what felt like endless doctor appointments, tons of allergy tests, physical therapy, and mental therapy. Some doctors told me I should never surf again, because I could die. I had to get stronger, I wasn't giving up on surfing. I added so many lifestyle changes just so that I could keep surfing. Surfing has been one of the most things I've done continually for 35 years and I wasn't about to give that up.
Ratopia 2024
The 2024 Ratopia contest was the first longboard contest I had entered in decades. My body was wrecked. I had shooting pains running down my lower back and right side. It was a challenge to just carry by board from the parking lot to the contest area. The surf that year was a cold 2-3'+ and closing out with just a few seconds to try and make something happen that would score some points. I did get 7 waves in those 15 minutes, but ate it on half of them. I never eat it that much, it was so frustrating. I ended up getting 4th in my heat and didn't even advance to the finals. I became determined to do better, and advance my way to a top three podium finish.
I started entering the South Bay Boardriders Club Surf series for Open Longboard in the early months of 2025. I got up on the podium a few times during the season, but never hit that 1st place spot. I even placed 3rd for the entire season and that felt like a huge achievement. I was still chasing a 1st place finish in the finals and I was running out of time to hit that goal in 2025. As soon as Ratopia posted the sign up sheet for the 2025 annual charity even I signed up. Then I checked the surf forecast. It was showing a huge storm hitting days before the contest and I wasn't sure if they were going to reschedule due to rain or heavy surf.
I felt pretty good the night before the 2025 Ratopia charity surf contest night. I wrote back and forth to Nick Webber the guy putting on the event, because I found in error in the heat times and let him know about it. First there was two longboard heats but a bunch of people backed out last minute and then there was just one hit and Nick said it would just be a finals heat. I'm good with that, since last year (2024) I didn't even make it to the final. I felt fit and ready. Like I said, I had put in over 700 ocean miles in between surfing and prone paddling this year. Plus I had 10 surf contest under my belt now in all kinds of surf conditions. I fell asleep thinking about the contest and how it was going to feel getting that 1st place win.
Ratopia Charity Surf Contest 2025
The next morning my wife and I got down to the Torrance parking lot around 7:30 am. I ran into a handful of SBBC guys that were going to judge the event and they wished me luck. I saw a few more friends in the parking lot as I was suiting up for my heat. The surf was big and crunchy. The sets were huge closeout barrels that just dumped. My plan was the same as the last final I was in a few weeks ago. Get out there, skip the big closeout sets and get back inside to the in-betweeners.
Ratopia Charity Surf Contest 2025
I stuck to the plan. I got nervous more than once and just reminded myself that only needed two waves. I got a long right with a noseride and cutback with a floater finish. Then ran down the beach to paddle out in front of the judges again. I got 3 more waves before the horn sounded to end the heat. Stoked. Finally, after nearly 30 years, including all the surf events I did this year I finally got 1st place in open longboard. It was the best way to end 2025. Now I'm hoping that I'll keep that momentum going in 2026.
I just rediscovered prone paddling on June 7th (2025), when a friend talked me into signing up for R10 Race hosted by the South Bay Boardriders Club (SBBC). The race has two courses and 8 mile course for the more experienced paddlers and a 2 mile course for newbies like me. I finished first in division in the 2 Mile R10 race and was immediately hooked. I signed up for the next race the South Bay Paddle and again hosted the SBBC. There was a 15 mile course and another 2 mile course. I did the 2 mile course and again placed first in my division. I got a relay team and did the Rock to Rock, then the Velzy-Stevens 2 mile, then the 2 mile Catalina Cup.
I swept the season and got first in every 2 mile race in my division (12' stock adult male). Over the season I became friends with so many prone paddlers. I took lessons with Kurt and DJ at Oceans Prone. I try to learn something from every paddler I met, even new paddlers had insights that I found incredibly useful. Right after the Catalina Cup race I stayed on the beach at the Manhattan Beach pier and watch amazing athletes finish the Catalina Classic, their 32 miles. I kept running into friends and telling them they are my hero for finishing those 32 miles.
A few weeks later I got a call from Tom Horton, the president of the SBBC and was invited to go watch a film about Paddling the Catalina Classic. The film 32 Miles was showing at the Mann's Chinese Theater in Hollywood as part of the Silicon Film Festival. We all met up in El Segundo and took a party bus to downtown. It was awesome! The conversations, the vibes, the whole trip there was so comfortable and fun that I almost wished the drive was longer.
Watching the film on the big screen was a sight worth seeing. I really felt like I was there in the water on this 32 mile journey with my friends. The story unfolded and it was a wild ride. Everything from the ocean conditions, the pain and joy. I'll admit that on more than one occasion my eyes teared up. I have a deep respect for the men and women that have slayed the 32 miles from Catalina to Manhattan pier. The film 32 Miles really showcases what prone paddling is about, its deep history and its beautiful future.
So here you go, check out the film here and get inspired to get in the ocean and experience what it's like to prone paddle.
"32 Miles" is a documentary that intertwines two compelling narrative arcs, showcasing the resilience and determination of athletes and organizers alike.
In one narrative, viewers are thrust into the heart of the action as athletes gear up and tackle the legendary Catalina Classic Paddleboard Race. Spanning 32 miles from Catalina Island to the iconic Manhattan Beach Pier, this grueling race is the ultimate test of endurance for paddlers from across the globe. Through breathtaking cinematography and intimate interviews, audiences witness the physical and mental challenges these courageous competitors face as they battle fierce ocean currents and unimaginable fatigue to reach the finish line.
Simultaneously, the film delves into the behind-the-scenes effort of the South Bay Boardrider's Club and the City of Manhattan Beach to honor the rich history and legacy of the Catalina Classic. With meticulous attention to detail, the organizers navigate bureaucratic hurdles and logistical obstacles to erect a monumental bronze statue at the base of the Manhattan Beach pier. As they confront numerous setbacks, their unwavering commitment to preserving the spirit of the race and celebrating its participants shines through.
As both storylines converge, "32 Miles" captures the essence of perseverance in the face of adversity. Whether battling the unforgiving waters or bureaucratic red tape, the protagonists of this documentary demonstrate the power of passion, teamwork, and sheer determination to overcome seemingly insurmountable challenges. Ultimately, the film serves as a tribute to the indomitable human spirit and the enduring legacy of the Catalina Classic Paddleboard Race.
In 2024 I felt my world collapse. I almost died twice from new allergies complications that halted multiple surgeries, and now I wear an emergency bracelet both in and out of the water. If that wasn't enough I also was laid off from work after 24 years of service. I had to reinvent new ways of bouncing back, both physically and mentally. Some days I had to battle the lack of energy, the lack of motivation, and deep physical pain. I wanted to use my time wisely, so I set a few immediate goals to focus on. I became determined to surf three or four days a week and to enter three surf contest.
In January I signed up to compete in the 2025 South Bay Surf Series Open longboarding contests. I used to compete in longboarding about 30 years ago in high school and I felt like getting back on that finalist podium again would be a pretty cool goal. It would also reinforce my weekly surf and strength training efforts. Unfortunately I missed the first contest in the series at El Porto on 12/14/24. The surf was big out and I just didn't have the courage or energy to show up. Looking back I wish I had signed up as that would've helped my overall ranking the series.
The first South Bay Surf Series contest I entered was the SSBR Event # 2 at Torrance on January 11th. There were only three people in my first heat so all three of us made to the final (top 3 advance). Still the waves were 2-3' and pretty good for the super high tide and I was feeling comfortable out there. Even through there wasn't much pressure in my heat I was determined to get solid rides and show that I could hold my own out in the water.
In the final heat I was surprised to see I only got 3 waves, but that was good enough to get 3rd place over all. I was missing waves that others got because I was out positioned. Or I was just too nice letting others get waves that I should've got. My goal was to get up on the podium and I placed in the top 3, so I hit that goal and I was stoked.
The next SSBR contest was event #3 at Porto on 2/8/25. The surf was solid 4-6+ and fair shape. I was really nervous leading up to this contest. I didn’t sleep well, I was kept watching the surf forecast jump from 6-10 foot to 2-3 foot. I was hoping it was actually going to be closer to 2-3, but it wasn't. It was big out with huge sets. Some looked makable, most closed out or roll by anyone trying to catch it. I stayed in the middle on my first heat and got the in-betweeners and the reformed waves. That strategy seems to work since I got 2nd in my heat.
The tide dropped as I waiting for my final heat and the surf was just heavy out there. There was a 5 minute water start and I made it all the way out to the outside. I missed like 5 waves in a row and just felt very out of place. Let's face it, I was scared. I had a full blown panic attack 100 yards off shore with no one in sight. The waves were sucking up and the sets just kept coming. It reminded me of a dangerous situation that almost killed me years ago at Port Hueneme.
I was not in my happy place at all. I ended up getting pushed to the inside and started getting the insiders again, but it just wasn't enough. I ended up in 4th place. The difference from 4th to 3rd was 0.2 of a point. If I had just managed to get one outside wave I would've gotten 2nd or 3rd for sure. I'm just beating myself up over it now. The surf was so big and water moving everywhere. Just nonstop paddling. I had not clue what the scores might be when I was out there. I got 4th because I didn't get a set wave. I needed to find a way to shake whatever this discomfort is that holding me back in bigger waves.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. Please don't operate heavy machinery or do anything that requires your attention so you can zone out and completely enjoy this Pre Surf Mediation.
This Pre Surf Mediation is here to help you boost you confidence both in and out of the water. It works best if you listen to it before and after every surf session!
More surf tips at
https://nobadtides.blogspot.com/ / nobadtides
Event #4 was on 3/15/25 at Porto and the surf was going to be big again. Leading up to the contest I worked on releasing some surf trauma thru therapy and tapping exercises. I also created a 5 minute pre-surf mediation with the positive self talk that wanted to reinforce. I worked on surfing bigger waves while maintaining a positive mindset. I was determined to improve my placing on the day of the contest.
I really prepared for this contest. I listened to my pre surf meditation and that felt really good. I knew my heat was also peak high tide so that felt good. I guess I got that first big wave just after a horn but that wasn't the horn to start my heat. Turns out theres an extra one minute gap before the real start of the heat (so technically its a 6 minute water start not 5 minutes). That thing was big and hit 18 MPH fastest wave for my stats and stoked to finally beat that first day in March of 2015!!! So getting a 10 year bomb of a wave was a win for me.
I ended up placing 3rd over all in the final. That was good, but man if that first wave would've scored I would've probably got first place. If I got all the way back outside and got another set I would've got first. I'm so close to getting first it's frustrating but also I keep getting better. I'm hungry to win so maybe next contest I'll get that first place.
Event #5 was on 4/5/25 and back at Porto again. The surf was way smaller and would sometime go completely flat between sets. In my semi-heat I rode my bigger 9'2 Lance Ho'okano and tried a few different things to see if I could find the pattern of what the judges were looking for that day. That always seems like a moving target. Even though it was small out the take offs were tricky. The waves would roll up slow, then suck up fast just before breaking, then get slow or stop completely.
My gut was saying swap boards to the new Skin Dog Blender in the finals, so I did. Good call! Thankfully that board paddles so nice and easy, fast, light, and doable. I got a few head stands in and was able to squeak into second place at the end of the heat.
Dave got first and had 2 solid waves. Next time I just need to be more patient and get the bigger sets (if they come). Also getting 2nd puts me in 3rd place over all in the series (from what I can tell in my excel stats chart I created since the Southbay Boardriders Club has been a little slow in keeping the rankings up to date for longboarding.
Event #6 was on 4/27/25 at Hermosa Pier. I used to surf the pier when I on the surf team in high school ages ago. I was checking the surf cams leading up to the event and it looked small and barely ridable. The morning or the South Bay Board Riders Club I scored free parking on the south side of the pier! I guess they just repaved the parking lot, so I was really stoked on that. I did a quick surf check and saw there were definitely waves. The surf was actually pretty big out, but the paddle out looked doable. My buddy Steph showed up to compete and I grabbed my stuff from my car and step up next to him. My sister showed up a little before my heat and that felt good to have her support. LZ was out of town in Phili so I knew I’d get less pics and videos this time, but I was hoping I'd get a few from the SBBR photographers.
I was feeling really good about my first heat because it was just me and Rodney Buck so I knew we’d both advance. Steph decided to sign up for longboarding too so he joined us. They were playing Sublime thru the loud speakers and I was digging that. I did some tapping on my hands before my heat to release any nervousness (there wasn’t much to be nervous about). The horn rang out and we paddled out. I was stoked out there, having fun getting on the sets and doing my usually thing I do when free surfing. I won the heat with score of 9.10.
I changed back into my regular clothes after my heat, since I brought along an extra wetsuit for the finals. I watched the waves, rehydrated and snacked. I was really feeling good about the contest and felt like I had a really good chance of getting first in the final. As it got closer to the time of the finals I suited up again and did some more tapping on my hands. The wind picked up a little but the surf still looked good to me. When the horn rang out I was ready and paddled out to the main peak. I got a solid first wave and scored a 4.23 one of my two top scores of the heat. My fourth waves was my second best score of 3.30. My final combined score was a 7.53 and I missed first place by .07 to Rodney Buck who had a combined score of 7.60. He only caught three waves and his top two waves was just enough to beat me and take that first place spot. When I got out of the water my hands and arms were cramping so bad. I really need to find a better way to prepare better so I don’t cramp up. I think this has happened after most of my contests this year.
I’m still happy that I got second, but I’m still so hungry to get a place standing. It’s been about 30 years since I’ve got first place in a longboard contest, and I really want that to happen again. The next contest in at Manhattan pier on 5/10/25 so I’ll continue to push my limits and hopefully I can get first place then. As of right now I’m ranked 3rd in the series and that feels good. I’d be a contender for first in the series if I didn’t miss that first contest a Porto back in December.
Event #7 was on 5/10/25 at Manhattan Pier. I haven't surfed there in ages. The surf looked fun and a bit tricky. A little steep on the take off and the sets were shifty and most closed out. I was hoping for a few rights that might reform on the inside, but ended up getting mostly left. Still I got a few noserides in on the bigger waves, but man the judges were just scoring harsh. Some things may have worked in my favor as the judges missed more than a few of the other competitors waves (didn't score them at all). It seemed impossible to get a 4 and very hard to get anything above a 2.5. Even getting set waves with noserides and riding all the way to the shore would give like barely 2 points. I'm just not sure what the heck the judges are looking for if riding set waves with nose rides and cutbacks amounts to very low scores. It's frustrating. At some point I need to learn what criteria the judges are actually using to issue points for rides.
As the Southbay Boardriders Club 2025 Surf Series came to an end there that was a lot to reflect on. I ended up getting ranked 3rd on Open Longboard for the series and that's pretty good for just getting back into competing. It was definitely a challenging series, there was a huge range of surf and surfers that added all sorts of factors into each heat. Some heat finals came down to hundredths of a point to decided the winners. I'm glad it was challenging. I'm stoked to have taken the opportunity to bust out of my comfort zone after so many decades and push my limits again.
Would I do it again? Yes, totally! Hopefully next year I can do even better. I'm still chasing after one of those first place trophies. For now, I'll keep strength training and by the time the next season starts I plan to be in the best shape of my life. Then I'll do my best and see what happens next.
