Thursday, May 28, 2026

Danielle Cass rides the cancer wave - I can do hard things

Each surf session reminded me that I can do hard things. Photo: Matt Berridge
 

Sometimes the Instagram algorithm shines a light on a hidden hero. It’s not that the person was invisible — maybe they were simply outside your orbit, living an incredible story you otherwise never would have found.

Somehow, I lucked out and stumbled across a Reel from Danielle Cass (@danielle.cass). The video was about her learning to surf at 52 years old. Four years later, she was battling breast cancer — and still refusing to give up.

What started as a challenge became something much bigger.

Through surfing, Danielle found not only strength, but community. She connected with a group of women surfers who became her cheerleaders both in and out of the water. Surfing became part of her healing journey — physically, emotionally, and spiritually.

There’s something deeply inspiring about someone willing to begin again later in life, especially in a sport as humbling and demanding as surfing. And then to face cancer with that same determination? That’s a different level of courage.

Danielle’s story has since been featured in The Inertia, and Pacific Longboarder, where her journey of “surfing through cancer” continues to resonate with people far beyond the lineup.

Her story reminds us that healing doesn’t always happen in hospitals or quiet rooms. Sometimes it happens in cold water, on difficult days, surrounded by people who refuse to let you quit.

Danielle Cass rides waves the same way she faces life with grit, vulnerability, and the belief that “I can do hard things.”

And honestly, I can’t think of a more inspiring message than that. In a world built on scrolling past people, Danielle Cass is someone worth stopping for. 



Go follow Danielle Cass and her journey:

IG @danielle.cass

SubStack Blog 


Sunday, May 24, 2026

Stories of surfers in their 70s and 80s who prove that surfing isn’t just a sport — it’s a lifelong obsession

 

Take a look at the surfers who never stopped paddling out. Here's a collection of inspiring surf films about older surfers, including Mickey Muñoz and Eric Davies, exploring longevity, surf culture, healthy aging, and the lifelong connection between surfers and the ocean.


Mickey Muñoz was one of the original icons of California surf culture at Malibu in the early 1950s and was among the first group of hellmen to pioneer riding big waves at Waimea Bay later that decade. He has stunt-doubled in Hollywood surf films, invented his own surfing maneuver, shaped boards alongside the best in the business, and prone paddled farther than any sane man should. This film is about none of those things. Mickey is now 87 years old—or at least he thinks he is—and plans to keep riding waves until he’s 100 or so. He’s a true professional at making lemonade when life gives him lemons and answers every question with a story that may or may not outlast your attention span. If you aim to surf longer than most people live, click play.


A short film about 73 year old surfer Eric Davies. Won 'Shortie of the Year' at London Surf Film Festival 2024. Filmed in North Devon. Eric's channel:    / @ericdavies7844  


Welcome to Episode 10! Let me introduce to you Larry Ledingham, I met Larry in Asu. Him and his crew where the most friendly surfers, altoght they been surfing since the 60s, They been surfing most of the time twice a day, he had an amazing energy, was a really good crew! Enjoy this short video and Thanks to the best surf guiding - Earl for having us and being the best host!


Monday, May 11, 2026

Where Surfboards Come to Life With Mark Brog & Soul Performance

 

I’ve been hanging out with Mark Brog and Justin from Soul Performance both at the beach and in the shop, and it’s been awesome getting to ride boards, trade feedback, and watch Mark do his thing behind the scenes.

I’ve spent a lot of hours in the shaping room with Mark just watching, learning, and soaking it all in — from the little details that make a board come alive to the things that can totally throw one off. There’s something pretty hypnotic about watching a great shaper work: the sound of the planer, foam dust flying everywhere, and years of experience showing up in every pass.

Most surfers never really get to see how much time, labor, and craftsmanship goes into a hand-shaped custom board before it hits the water, so I figured I’d share a few short videos of Mark shaping and glassing some boards so you can check it out for yourself.


In The Shaping Room With Mark Brog And Soul Performance - Full Shaping Video #surfboardshaping

 

You're watching master shaper Mark Brog work his magic on another custom shortboard. This is a full shaping video sped up and trimmed down to give you a feel for what goes into a custom hand shaped surfboard. We’ve been shaping boards, catching waves, and making new friends. Thank you to everyone who joined us, surfed, and shared smiles. Mark has been busy in the shaping room, producing some fresh shapes ready to rip: the Twinfinity, McFlurry, and the Joker Fish. Save yourself the drive with our new ding repair drop-off locations in Malibu and Redondo Beach. We’ve partnered with Ventura Surf Shop, Sea N' Soul in Malibu, and MNML Golf in Redondo Beach. Just leave your board at any of these spots, and we’ll handle the rest! You can also find our boards on the shelves at all of these shops. Check out more at https://soulperformance.com/


In The Glassing Room With Mark Brog And Soul Performance - Full Glassing Video #surfboardglassing

You're watching master shaper Mark Brog work his magic on another custom shortboard. This is a full glassing video sped up and trimmed down to give you a feel for what goes into a custom hand shaped surfboard.

Check out more at https://soulperformance.com/


BROG Soul Performance 2025 12 23

I got the chance to test drive this custom 9'1 carbon fiber/ Cork longboard shaped by Mark Brog at Soul Performance. It has a deep spoon with channels in the nose that make nose riding stable and fast. Check them out at https://soulperformance.com