There are so many hidden benefits that come from surfing. The stoke factor is just the tip of the iceberg (or surfboard) as most surfers already know. There are so many new discoveries that I made over the last two years, even in the last two months, that need to be shared... that's why I made this book for you.
I went live with NO BAD TIDES; Surfing Strategies for Life on 2/22/22 because that's funny. So while you are waiting to get your copy you can check out my other books and journals on Amazon (just click here). Or read more about the Surf Stats Tracker: Track What Matters Most - The Ultimate Surfing Workbook. (buy it on Amazon here: Color .... or ... Black & White)
Now for the fun stuff... Here's a sneak peak inside the book... keep in mind that there are over 100 color photos throughout the book (but not in the intro- I added some here just so you can get a tiny feel for what's in there)... Check it out:
Introduction
Nicaragua 2018
Photo by Jersson Barboza
This strategy book creates transformative, sustainable, and responsible surfing experiences (no matter what life throws at you). It provides strategies for how we can connect with others in our local communities or abroad. It’s full of tips, new ideas, and new perspectives to expand your surfing skills, emphasizing personal safety and situational awareness. Most surfing tools shared can be directly translated to help you in countless other activities. In addition to elevating your surfing experience, they can increase growth opportunities and self-confidence in your personal and business life too.
At first, I was reluctant about sharing my 30 years of surfing secrets because I had an irrational fear that everyone who reads this book would all of a sudden be sitting in the right spot at the right time and catching all the waves, leaving none for me. I changed my mind when I realized that the 80/20 rule also applies to surfing in the same way it applies to self-driven education. I’m convinced that 80% of surfers out there are mostly self-taught. Sure, maybe some of them took a lesson or two. The other 20% of surfers are focused on additional learning to gain advantages. These are the ones who have the confidence to conquer their fears of being held down underwater, go charging after big waves, or even jump in and diffuse bad situations with a not-so-friendly local—yes, there are some out there.
With Greg Noll
Photo by Eric J. Cedeno @nobadtides
In my rough math only about 20% of surfers pick up learning from other resources, and 20% of that 20%, leaves 4% of surfers learning surfing techniques from books. So congratulations on being part of the elite 4% club! I’m good with sharing my knowledge with you and the 4% club. I also understand that there will always be more waves. There are enough waves to share. Plus, if a spot looks too crowded, then maybe it’s time to explore a new surf spot.
Costa Rica 2014
Photo by Lindsay Zuelich @Wood_Brain
I’ve spent the better part of the last two decades surfing with my friend Skip. When I first started surfing with Skip, I noticed he would paddle straight out, sit in one spot, and only catch the waves that came to him. I had a different approach, and I usually rode four or five times more waves than he did. Over time, he caught on to some of my methods. Suddenly, he was consistently moving toward the waves and paddling further out because he recognized where he should be to catch and ride the biggest waves that arrived in groups called sets. Then, he started consistently sitting in the right spot, and in a very short time, he was catching all the best waves.
California 2020
Photo by Peter McMahon @petermacinrb
It wasn’t long before he started to sit in the priority position to have the right of way. At first, it really bothered me that he was using the rules of surf etiquette to his advantage. But then, I just had to laugh because he put in the effort to be a better surfer, have more fun, and catch more waves. I’d like to think that I was a big part of Skip’s accelerated learning because of the time we spent together.
California 2020 with Tyler @Gnarf
Photo by Lindsay Zuelich @Wood_Brain
Skip being a better surfer also meant that I needed to up my game too. In some aspects, he passed me and was charging big waves that were clearly out of my comfort zone. He also became one of my biggest supporters and continues to this day to push me to higher levels of surfing. That’s what good friends and surfers do. They continue to encourage and challenge you. I’m incredibly grateful for our friendship.
Surfing is one of many activities that connects people. No matter the environment or location in the world, a surfer’s smile is the same. A surfer’s stoke and glow of happiness needs no translation—and that makes surfing very special.
Costa Rica 2013
Photo by Eric J. Cedeno @nobadtides
With the endless abyss of the digital age internet, many stories start to surface about who is allowed to surf (past and present). Wait, what? Did I just say not everyone is allowed to surf in these modern times? Well, yes, most recently, with the 2020 COVID-19 global pandemic, beaches were closed, and surfing was banned almost worldwide. There are many examples of great losses and changes (both good and bad) to cultures.
Nicaragua 2018
Photo by Lindsay Zuelich @Wood_Brain
In some cases, changes in surfing led to territorial localism and created entitlement monsters that will defend their surf spot at all costs. In other cases, these changes birthed positive transformation, new opportunities, understanding, forgiveness, and healing. That’s why I’m sharing these stories. As surfing and the world around it evolves, there will be multiple changes, and opportunities for personal growth too.
California 2012
Photo by John Jones III
Ok... One more sneak peak just because you made it this far. Here's a list of the chapters in the book. There's something in there for everyone, even non-surfers can learn a few new tricks. Plus you already know I'm a blogger so you can count on over 100 cool photo's in there.
I went live with this book on 2/22/22 because that's funny. So while you are waiting to get your copy you can check out my other books and journals on Amazon (just click here). Table of Contents
Introduction..................................................................10
The Liquid Echo Chamber...........................................15
1,530 Miles to the Ocean..............................................19
He Said “Yes!” I’m a Grom..........................................27
A Real Christmas Story.................................................37
Surfing Ambassadors.....................................................47
Ballroom Dancing with Waves......................................59
Propelling Forward Faster..............................................71
The Secret Formulas to Learn Anything........................85
Where to Surf, Local Privilege, & Visitation Rules.......99
Pools of Confidence......................................................111
The Turning Point 1990-96...........................................121
Scoping Out Waves & Finding Inspiration...................135
Murder & the Quest for New Magic.............................145
Show Up & Do It..........................................................153
The Hidden Side Effects of Surfing..............................161
The Sedentary Athlete...................................................169
The $2 Trillion Give Back.............................................177
Soul Surfing at Work.....................................................185
Tattoos...........................................................................203
The Three F-Bombs.......................................................213
Distractions, Dings, and Other Delays...........................225
Waves of Gratitude ........................................................239
Personal Best Records and Motivational Factors...........253
The Introvert’s Guide to the Benefits of Surfing............267
The Five languages of Love and Surfing........................275
Rinse & Repeat...............................................................281
Surfing Resources...........................................................285
