Friday, November 29, 2013

Warning to Manhattan Beach paddlers and anglers: leave the great white sharks alone (via www.petethomasoutdoors.com)

Found this on http://www.petethomasoutdoors.com
My Manhattan Beach surf friends already told me about this and it's worth sharing with you. A few of them have recently been "bumped" by sharks in the surf line up so beware- be safe. Take care of yourself and each other:


Warning to Manhattan Beach paddlers and anglers: leave the great white sharks alone

EricmartinWhen a coastal region has a great white shark problem, it generally means that a clear and present danger exists for water users.
But for Manhattan Beach in Los Angeles County, it's the sharks that are at risk of being harrassed by stand-up paddlers trying to videotape them, and by anglers attempting to hook the protected predators.
The state Department of Fish and Wildlife, citing a trend that involves paddlers with GoPro cameras intentionally trying to find white sharks, is warning people to leave them alone or face the possibility of being cited. The same goes for pier anglers.

"White sharks are a candidate species under the California Endangered Species Act and therefore fully protected," Traci Larinto and Michelle Horeczko, part of the DFW's White Shark Status Review Team, said in a statement issued Thursday afternoon. "They cannot be taken or pursued.  The public should take steps to avoid white sharks while fishing or being out on the water."

Though white shark sightings are up this year throughout Southern California, the epicenter is Manhattan Beach, particularly a mile-long stretch from the pier north to a surf spot called El Porto.

Juvenile white sharks–those measuring to about 10 feet–are seasonal residents of Southland coastal waters, and perhaps because of a mixture of abundant prey and warm water, many of them congregate off Manhattan Beach.

(Juvenile white sharks feed primarily on small fish, including sharks and rays. Most sightings occur in summer and early fall. The sharks are believed to migrate into Mexican waters during the winter.)

The increase in sightings could be due to an increase in the number of juvenile white sharks. But a definite factor is a sharp increase in the number of people who stand-up paddle, many while caring GoPro cameras in the hope of capturing footage to share via social media.

"Right now, every surfer/thrill seeker with a GoPro is going out to Manhattan Beach and trying to film them, ride them, and catch them on hook and line," said Christopher Lowe, a Cal State Long Beach professor and white shark expert. "Most people do not understand CESA regulations and that even incidental catch [or] being caught swimming after a shark with a GoPro camera can be considered take or harassment and is a citable, even jailable offense."

Paddleboard sightings began to increase in September. In October, a YouTube video of a close encounter, shared by Mike Durand, went semi-viral. He used a helmet-cam to record a shark swimming beneath his board as he paddled  off El Porto. Video is posted here:



Also catching the eye of the DFW was a Nov. 8 post on this website, showing Eric Martin swimming with a 9-foot white shark. Martin, co-director of the Roundhouse Marine Studies Lab and Aquarium at the end of the pier, said he had always wanted to swim with a great white.

Not long after he swam out with a mask and long pole for protection, one of two sharks that were spotted from the pier cruised within feet of him.

Larinto, of the DFW, says this sends a message that this is acceptable and safe behavior.

Martin, who has spotted dozens of white sharks from the pier over the years, said he swam with the sharks, in part, to prove that the juvenile sharks do not present a serious danger to swimmers and surfers.
Fishermen, however, are no friends of the sharks. Martin has watched anglers intentionally try to hook them. Last year, he almost got into a fight with a man who refused to let Martin cut his line, after he had hooked a white shark. The man eventually allowed Martin to free the shark.
Earlier this week KTLA posted footage captured by paddleboarder Nathan Anderson off El Porto. Anderson stated that three white sharks were picked up by the camera, all within 100 yards of one another. The video was uploaded to YouTube on Monday and is posted here:

As for fishing for sharks from the pier, it's not illegal. But catching white sharks is illegal and hooking them for catch-and-release seems to fall into somewhat of a legal gray area.

But these are a protected species that may or may not be mounting a comeback after years of overfishing. It's best to leave them alone.

Said Lowe: "One rumor is that a couple of fishermen have caught and killed some sharks off El Porto and supposedly found squid in the stomachs. I just don't think the public understands the ramifications of the law here." 
–Pete Thomas
–Top image shows Eric Martin intentionally swimming with a juvenile great white shark off Manhattan Beach Pier. Credit: Dani Baker

How to Create Your Own Blog with Blogger.com

I've had a few people ask me about how they can get started with their own blog. It's pretty easy stuff. I've put together some of the basics on how to start a blog in blogger. Check it out:

How to Create A Blog with Blogger.Com


1
Navigate to www.blogger.com using your web browser of choice.



2
Sign in using your Google Account to get started.


3
If you do not have a Google Account, click “Get Started” to create one.


Create a Google Account
Create Google Account


Enter password (it's a good idea to write this down somewhere safe -- or email it to yourself and then save the email so you can refer to it later if you forget it). You have to retype the password in the second box.


4
Enter a “Display Name” to be used to sign your blog posts and click “Continue”.

    • Choose a user name. If you prefer people not to know who you actually are, then choose a fictitious name. e.g. 2tech4me
    • Accept the terms (it is safe to do and won't generate junk mail).
    • Word verification: type the letters that appear as a graphic above the verification box. This is there to ensure that the blog is being created by a person and not automatically being generated by a computer.
    • Click on the "Continue" arrow

5
Click “Create Your Blog Now”



6
Select a “Blog title” and an available URL for your blog. You can check if the URL you are considering is available by clicking "Check Availability".

Name New Blogger.com Blog
      • Enter title: This is the title that will appear at the top of your blog page and will also be the default name that will appear in users' browsers when they bookmark/add to favorites you blog, so choose something that will give readers a clear idea of what your blog is about
      • Blog address: pick something that you'll remember easily and that is easy to type.
      • Click on the "Continue" arrow

      7

      Choose a Template
      Choose a Blogger.com Template
      • On the "Choose a template" screen:
        • Scroll through the selections and click on the little radio button next to the name of the template that you choose. e.g. I chose the Simple template. Note: you can change the template later if you decide you don't like the one you have selected, so don't spend too much time at this point worrying what will look best!


      8 Congratulations - Your New Blog is Active!
      Blogger.com Blog Created

      9 Write Your First Post
      Write a Post in a Blogger.com Blog

      • A window will appear that looks much like a word processing window. Start typing, and use the formatting bar at the top to help you format your entry. e.g. You can change font size, type of font, color, justification, create links and so on. Experiment with these to see what they do.
        • When finished, click on "Publish Post"
      • Once you have posted an entry, a screen will appear telling you "Your blog post published successfully!"
        • To see the results, click on the link to "View Blog."
      • To get back to your blog so that you can add a new entry or edit the existing blog, click on the little orange "B" next to the search field at the top left of your browser window. If you are already logged in, this will take you to your blog Dashboard. If you aren't logged in, then you will first need to log in (using the user name and password that you set up when you created your blog -- that's why it's important to write down what these are when you first create your blog).
      • From the dashboard you can:
        • create a new post (a new blog entry): click on the "NEW POST" button
        • change your blog settings (don't worry about this now, but check it out later)
        • edit your existing posts: to do this, click on "Edit Posts" --> this takes you to a screen that gives you the option of creating a new post or editing your entries. To edit entry, click on the "Edit" link next to the entry. This opens the blog in editing mode, and you can go ahead and edit
        • to post blog once you are done editing, click on the orange "Publish Post" button (which takes you to "Your blog post published successfully!" window, and from there, click to "View Blog").

      Posting a photo or other image on your blog

      1. When you are in the compose window to create a blog, you will see a little picture/icon that looks like a mountain on the tool bar (right next to the spell check icon). Click on that
      2. This opens a box that gives you a choice to add an image from your computer or an image from the web. The easiest is from your computer. So click on the button that says "browse."
      3. Navigate to where you have a picture saved on your computer and select it.
      4. Back in the upload image window, select the layout (if you want the picture to be left, center, or right, or none). I like the option of having the text wrap around the picture as it reduces scrolling -- but this is a personal choice -- no "right" way!. Also select if you want the image to be small, medium or large. My advice: go small or medium, but avoid large as it makes the blog take too long to load.
      5. Click the "Upload Image" button. It will take a little while for it to load, but that should do it! (you may need to refresh the page for you to see that the image has been uploaded).

      Signing in once you have your blog set up

      When you want to blog again on another day, just go to blogger.com --> at the top of the page that opens, you will see "Sign in to use Blogger with your Google Account."
      • Fill in your username and password (that you created in step 3 above).
      • Click "Sign In"

      Posting comments on other people's blogs

      To post a comment on a blog:
      1. Once you are on a person's blog, click on the "Post a Comment" link that usually appears below their blog entry.
      2. This will open a comment in the box. It's useful to click on the link next to this that says, "show original post" as it enables you to see what the person wrote in their blog as you are composing your comment on this.
      3. Click in the comment box and type your comments.
      4. Enter your blogger.com user name and password below the comment box, and then click on the blue "login and publish" button (Reason: In order to post a comment on a blogger.com blog, you need to have your own blogger account). If you are already logged in, then all you need to do is click on the "Publish Your Comment" button.

      Blogger Getting Started Guide

      Now that you've gotten started this link will help you get started with learning the about how to customize your blog. Check it out (Click here)

      Tuesday, November 26, 2013

      Chuck Patterson... Wave Skiing JAWS... The Line Up Just Got Heavier

      This may not be for everyone, but it's still very impressive... Check it out:


      Salomon Freeski TV S4 E16 Wave Skiing 2.0: JAWS




      Uploaded on Feb 6, 2011
      Chuck Patterson is a former pro Freeskier, a professional Waterman, and one of the most fearless humans we've ever met. After a brief experiment with skiing on waves several years ago, Chuck's passion for the idea was re-lit after watching Mike Douglas and Cody Townsend ski the waves of Maui in 2009. In January 2011, Chuck followed the biggest swell of the year to Maui, to see if he could see if he could successfully ski Pe'ahi or 'Jaws' -- one of the most powerful waves on earth.

      Mike and Cody experiment:
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PZGhI...

      Saturday, November 23, 2013

      Capturing Cobley: Profile on Local Shaper Dan Cobley (via easyreadernews)

      I was friends with Danny back in high school, that was many-many waves ago.  I remember one time we took a trip to Rincon in VW bus and scored some fun shoulder high waves. I've been seeing his name pop up a lot lately. They even did something about him shaping on Surfline. I think the last time I saw him was back in September of 1997 at the first Aloha Days Surf Contest in Hermosa beach. We both made it to the finals for longboarding and he ended up winning it, taking first place. I was stoked for him and also stoked that I got second place. So here's a nice profile of Danny that was done by the Easy Reader, check it out:


      Capturing Cobley 

      (via easyreadernews)

      “Becker came to me and was like ‘I love your boards but really Dan, taking out the beveled nose on the UFO?’

      Photo by Mark Kawakami
      It took a breakfast at Tammie’s and a mid-week Malibu surf safari to really get Cobley going.
      His introduction to surfing, at age 8, was as unconventional as they come.
      “My Mom’s from Catalina. I first stood up at a beach break on the backside of the island,” he said.

      Photo by Mark Kawakami
      “I was ditching class to surf and smoke pot,” the now long time sober shaper laughed. “I went to every continuation school in the South Bay.”
       “Kent Wyatt was a bad ass who’d only go out if it was like double overhead at Manhattan Beach Pier,” the ’97 West High graduate said of his surf coach. “He’d try to rally us to surf contests on Saturday’s but we’re like, we’re going to party Friday night and wake-up around 2 p.m.”
      After high school, Cobley competed on the Professional Longboard Association series, a contest circuit with events up and down the coast. But the political nature of the organization left a bad taste.
      “You could do the best hit in the world and still lose to the bigger names,” he said. “It got under my skin.” 
      Photo by Brad Jacobson
      Photo by Brad Jacobson
        Cobley was riding Hap Jacob’s boards with wedge stringers and all the bells and whistles. But a chance riding of a Dave Daum (now of King’s Paddle Sport) shape at a private cove took Cobley in a different direction.
      “I had a beautiful new Jacobs, red resin tint gloss and polish with a hi-density stringer that I didn’t want to take out because of the crowd and the chance of dings,” he said.
      From his old VW bus (his forth one as he drives them to dust), he pulled out the “Dominator.”
      “It wasn’t pretty, with curve bally rails, like my longboards now,” Cobley joked, “But it worked like magic.”
      Photo by Brad Jacobson
      Photo by Brad Jacobson
       Cobley has nothing but good things to say about Jacobs. He considers him “an all time great” and “respects him more than anybody.” At this time, though, he started working with Daum.
      “Daum ran a machine shop and made boards as a hobby for friends,” Cobley said and laughed, “missing out on his kids’ soccer and stuff.”
      The second board Daum made was not exactly like the “Dominator.” In fact, everyone was a little different, but usually fell in the 9’-6’ range with a rounded pin or square tail and a 2+1 fin set-up.   
      “My favorite board was the 9’ Carpathia model because it was devilish good,” he said. “Tail 360s [whirly birds], big snaps, and I could noseride when I wanted to.”
      On the side, Cobley experimented with shaping his first board. He was inspired by his dad, whom Cobley described as “a huge inspiration, a big influence, and a DIY guy either mechanical or with wood.” When his dad was remodeling a bedroom in the Cobley house, Cobley took the opportunity to use his dad’s tools.

      Photo by Mark Kawakami
      Cobley asked Daum to teach him to shape boards. Every weekend he’d be in Encinitas, shaping in Daum’s garage learning the fundamentals, skills, and how to use a Rockwell
         “Daum is a master engineer and it shows in his shapes being by the measurements,” Cobley said. “I more of an intuitive go-by the feel guy, but we collaborate.”
      By ‘98 Cobley was a frequent visitor of Mangiagli’s Glassing and the Becker factory, where he bought blanks from Phil Becker.
      One day after buying a blank, Becker said to Cobley, “Sonny you want a job.”
      Cobley believing Becker to be pulling a fast one on him smiled and said, “For you, no,” as he went to pull out a blank from the racks.
      “Seriously, 30 boards a week and I’m not kidding,” Becker said.
      Cobley was still convinced that Becker was messing with him. The two bantered back and forth until Cobley finally realized Becker was serious.
      “I told Becker I had to think about it and inquire about not stepping on anybody’s toes,” he said.
      Photo by Brad Jacobson
      Photo by Brad Jacobson
      Cobley found out that the shaper he would replace was moving on voluntarily to work for another label.
      “The hell with it, the first day I made 7 or 8 boards with an order card for that week of 40 boards and the whip comes,” he said. “Thanks Phil.”

      Photo by Mark Kawakami
       “Stock production keeps you busy and paid,” he said, “But it could be a bit tedious because shaping for me is an artist’s release and great fun.”
      Cobley would get creative and add subtle tweaks to each model. On the UFO model, he first took out the beveled nose. On the next batch of UFOs he also changed the rocker a skoosh, and finally the rail shapes.
      “Becker loved me because I was doing 50 to 60 boards a week, keeping the glassing shop busy,” he said, “But he came to me and was like ‘I love your boards but really Dan, but taking out the beveled nose on the UFO? [The UFO was one of Becker’s designs from the' 60s when he shaped for Rick Surfboards.] We laughed about it.”
      Becker is an inspirational person to Cobley. He views Becker as “a voice of reason” who “tells you straight and how it is.”
      “One of the best things Becker has taught me is to evolve the fads in the market and grow the design,” he said. “Don’t be a copier, but a designer who gets the original intent and makes it work.”
      This “designer ethos” would lead to the next step in Cobley’s shaping career.
      Photo by Brad Jacobson
      Photo by Brad Jacobson
      “I was getting kind of tired of being a human shaping machine and with Phil retiring, I felt it was time to make my exit,” he said. “I had a feeling Becker corporate was not into my style or me.”
      Cobley embraced being a custom surfboard shaper.
      “I’ve found that working closely with the individual I can dial in that magic board and get them on a better board then what they have been on,” he said.
      During the shaping room photo shoot, photographer and DZ graphic design guru Mark Kawakami and I got to see Cobley in action with one of his regulars.
      A customer took in an older Cobley board to be replicated, but he wanted it glassed a little heavier. It was a quad fin, a fin set-up first popular in the early ’80s, with the thickness, a swallow tail outline and a beak nose straight off of Mike Purpus’ mid-70s quiver, and a modern bottom with a double barrel concave.
      “I love reinvesting in and examining these old designs,” he said as he pulled out different templates laying them on the board to figure out how he came up with such a wild shape.
      The customer, Carlos Lopez, mentioned what he like about the board and it being his favorite stick.
      “The variables that go into making surfboards are so broad and complex that the puzzle never ends. It’s a life long love because people, waves, and conditions change,” he said. “I’m focused solely on the individual with hand shapes and not this mass production crap.”  DZ

      Sunday, November 17, 2013

      Surfboard Fins... A dynamic look at what they actually do


      FCS: Performance Characteristics


      DRIVE
      Drive provides forward acceleration and helps maintain speed through turns. The amount of drive produced by a fin is directly influenced by the base length, material and the total surface area.
      Put simply; a larger fin with a longer base will offer. (more drive / less drive / more drive)

      PIVOT
      Pivot refers to the length of the turning arc. Pivot is influenced by the sweep angle or rake,
      the foil and the depth of the fin. Fins with less sweep angle will turn in a tighter arc; fins with more sweep angle will turn in a longer arc. (tight arc / long arc)

      HOLD
      Hold is defined as the binding of the board to the wave. Hold is determined by flex and the overall fin template. Fins with more hold prevent the board sliding through turns, less hold allows the board to easily break free from the wave during turns; this is often referred to as ‘release’.




      Plus sometimes they just look cool.. Like these:



















      Thursday, November 14, 2013

      Why Surfing Really Makes Us Happy (VIA SURFRESOURCE.ORG)



      by DOUG on NOVEMBER 26, 2011 (via surfresource.org)

      Upon first read this topic seemed a little bit far fetched, but who knows, maybe its true…
      Scientists have done some fairly in depth research and have concluded that the reason we surfers enjoy surfing so much could be a result of sea spray.  Yes, sea spray…Check out the article fromThe Inertia
      While surfing, we experience elevated levels of Adrenalin and Dopamine. Adrenaline raises your heart rate and increases your reaction time (the fight or flight reflex), while Dopamine is a chemical neurotransmitter triggered in your body when you are doing something you like. “Adrenaline junkies” – such as big wave surfers – get used to higher levels of these chemicals, as demonstrated by Keanu Reeves in Point Break (see video).
      While this adrenalin rush may give us an edge in the water the effects subside quickly once ashore, while surf-stoke remains long after we’re back on the beach. Research suggests these persistent effects of surf euphoria may be attributed to an unlikely candidate: sea spray.
      The turbulence created by breaking waves alters the physical structure of the air and water, breaking apart water and air molecules and releasing charged ions* into the atmosphere. On their eternal quest for perfect waves surfers inevitably encounter this altered atmospheric state.
      Some scientists are convinced this abundance of negative ions has a positive effect on mood by triggering the release of endorphins and serotonin – the “happy hormones” – and increasing blood flow and oxygen circulation through our bodies.
      Read more at theinertia.com

      Wednesday, November 13, 2013

      JOHN JOHN FLORENCE ON VICE MAG'S 'HI SHREDABILITY' (Via Surf Europe)


      Vice Magazine just released a new episode of ‘Hi Shredability’ starring John John. Kid just bought himself a pad down from his mum’s place and is officially ‘flying the nest’!

      Tuesday, November 12, 2013

      Kelly Slater Wave Co... New Wave Pool



      This doughnut-shaped wave pool is the brainchild 

      of a local surf champ By Jerry Hume, Brevard County Reporter (Via baynews9)




      If a world famous surfer's vision catches on, you may soon be able to hang 
      ten just about anywhere.

      Kelly Slater, well known in Brevard County and around the world, wants to build an "endless 
      wave pool" for surfing.
      The Cocoa Beach native and 11-time surfing world champion's company, the 
      Kelly Slater Wave Co.recently unveiled a new website, including renderings of what the 
      doughnut-shaped wave pool would look like.
      According to the website, the pool would produce guaranteed surfable waves, and would be the
      center of a resort-type experience.
      "Centered around an island created just for you is a place of leisure and escape to reconnect
      with family, friends and yourself," the website teases. "This one-of-a-kind destination celebrates
      the best of beach culture and the surf lifestyle and delivers an unparalleled wave riding experience
      tailored to each guest. As surfer, spectator or beachgoer, you choose your experience."
      If it sounds like the kind of attraction you'd love to see in Central Florida, you might have to wait
      a little longer. It looks like Australia will be the first location to partner with Slater in this new
      surfing experience.

      Get Some Crafty Surf Lessons for Christmas

      I’m not that crafty but I know a bunch of talented people that are very creative. The Crafty Surf Blog can spark the creative side of most surfers. It has easy to follow step by step instructions that make everything look easy and do-able. There’s a bunch of stuff that I found to be very useful like how to make your own truck tail gate surfboard pad from a beach chair, my original one broke so I might have to give this one a try. I figured with Christmas coming up you might want to make a gift for that special surfer of yours. So if you’re in the mood to get crafty check out Crafty Surf and get inspired.


      Sunday, November 10, 2013

      The Napsack x Poler by GLENN SAKAMOTO (via liquidsaltmag)

      The Napsack x Poler

      by GLENN SAKAMOTO on SEPTEMBER 3, 2013 · 0 COMMENTS
      Labor Day may have passed and the kids have gone back to school, but there is still some epic camping and road trips to be had. The Napsack by Poler seems to have been made with adventurous surfers in mind when they designed this ingenious sleeping bag/snuggy-like product.
      Here’s how they describe it: “The Napsack has zippers at the shoulders, so you can stick your arms out, and a cinch at the bottom so that you can open it up and stick your legs out. Hike it up to your waist, cinch it, and wear it like a puffy coat around the campfire, and then crawl right back into your tent without ever having to leave the warmth of your bag.”
      We tested The Napsack and we think it is brilliant – comfortable and well made, thoughtful engineering, and one of the most fun new brands out there right now. Highly recommended. Find out more at www.polerstuff.com

      Saturday, November 9, 2013

      Robert August: My First Board (via liquidsaltmag)

      I'm pretty sure every surfer remembers the story about when they got their first surfboard. I wrote about it, it was my first post call "Back to the Beginning." Here's Robert's story about his first board. I'm sure you've heard of the famous Robert August, if you haven't then this is a good place to start. Check it out:

      Robert August: My First Board

      by ROBERT AUGUST on MARCH 12, 2013 · 0 COMMENTS
      August
      Every surfer remembers his first surfboard. It goes along with memories of his first wave, first time standing up on the board, first surf trip, and the time spent with friends during these experiences. With all these memories there usually is a story (or two), so of course I thought I should share with you all.
      In those days, before the dawn of history, my family lived in Seal Beach, California. Nearby lived Jack Haley, a lifeguard at Seal Beach and a great surfer as well. He even won the West Coast championship at Huntington Beach. Jack had a 9’5″ board that was very beat-up and pretty much waterlogged. All boards back then were made out of balsa wood, a very light wood, but porous, and therefore they absorbed water. This is in contrast to today’s boards which are made of closed-cell foam and therefore impervious to water.
      Anyway, when I was seven years old, my dad bought the board from Jack, stripped off the fiberglass, and stored it in our attic where we had forced air heating so it would dry out. It sat in the attic for about six months until it was thoroughly dry. Then my dad shaped it down to eight feet and took it to a boatyard in Long Beach to be fiberglassed. I got to pick out what color I wanted; I chose red. All in all, they charged him about $10 to glass it and add a fin.
      I kept that board in my bedroom and surfed every day for the most formative years of my life. When I got my first ding, I was almost in tears. My best friend was hurt! When my dad got home from work that day I asked him to fix it. He replied, “I will do it tomorrow.” I almost yelled at him, “No, please do it now! My buddy is hurt!”
      Well, because I spent a lot of time in the water with this board, by the time I turned fourteen, I was a pretty accomplished surfer. By then there were commercial board makers springing up, so I sold the board to a friend and saved up $75 for a new board by Greg Noll. He built the board in his mother’s garage in Hermosa Beach and it took him two months to finish.
      I have owned many boards since then, and have shaped many thousands, but I will never forget my first board…



      Friday, November 8, 2013

      DIY Surf Films: Against the Code by CHRIS NELSON


      DIY Surf Films: Against the Code
      TEXT BY CHRIS NELSON
      ILLUSTRATION: ADRIAN KNOTT/KORDUROYT


      In a world where branded surf footage is amassing online, can the independent filmmaker still keep things DIY?
      The ground is moving beneath our feet. The ‘digital revolution’ – that all-encompassing subterranean shift – is changing the landscape. Every day, as if propelled by a ridge of binary code, an upwelling of moving images spills forth from every laptop, iPhone and tablet screen demanding our attention. Surfing online is not just a metaphor, it seems. Every session is captured instantly and fired around the globe, with every brand packaging their latest expedition as a glossy travelogue of ‘webisodes’ and distributing them, for free, to the masses via social networks. But here’s the thing: with so much surf footage competing for our attention, just how is the independent surf filmmaker going to survive?
      Moviemaking used to follow such simple lines: shoot the film; screen it in front of amped crowds. Then came Betamax, VHS, DVD, and the formula changed: stack ’em high in the surf shop; cross your fingers and pray you recoup enough to fund the next project. But what now? The indie producer is faced with a new dilemma – outside the traditional distribution model, how do you monetise your output and stay afloat while shooting in the line-up? “We’re at a crossroads regarding the future of the surf media,” explains Cyrus Sutton, whose prolific output centres around Korduroy.tv and includes award-winning movie Stoked and Broke. “It’s really the corporately backed vs. the independent passion projects.”
      For some, this is a brave new world where the medium has been democratised, bringing relatively inexpensive, high-quality equipment into the hands of more creatives. “There is a splintering of genres as never before,” says Tyler Breuer of SMASH Surf, the collective promoting surf culture nights in New York. “Technology has levelled the playing field, giving all surfers an opportunity to be a filmmaker. Ten to fifteen years ago, only a handful of people could afford to make and distribute films. For the most part, these looked and felt the same. Now, you can find incredible surf documentaries, short narratives, comedy, surf porn, films with a cause, the avant-garde… The list goes on. But also, we are seeing more brand-made films. They are going to be the most technical and high-performance out there because they have the financial backing. They are not concerned with turning a profit on those films. They want to get the exposure and market themselves.”
      But just because a brand gets involved, does that mean the process is compromised? “I see the lines get blurred as surf companies embrace the lifestyle aspect of surfing and fund more and more artists,” explains Cyrus. “It all comes back to each artist calibrating their internal compass and not letting the affiliation with companies affect the integrity of their work, regardless of where it’s coming from.”
      Cyrus is a perfect example of this. Although he has just penned a deal with Reef, he remains an independent. When looking to fund Korduroy.tv – a site that has become a platform for free-thinking creatives – he turned not to traditional advertising or sponsorship but to crowd-funding via Kickstarter. Surpassing his goal, it’s clear that financing has become fluid. “I think there will always be a place for media that serves no commercial agenda,” he explains.
      For the majority of independents, their driving force remains the story – and a desire to tell it. Narrative is still king. Pierce Michael Kavanagh’s film Manufacturing Stoke asked many questions of the surf industry. “I love surfing, and always will, but the industry is out of control,” he explains. “A toxic $7 billion dollar a year industry telling us what it means to be surfers? That’s a fucking joke. Surfers should control the industry, not the other way around. I wantedManufacturing Stoke to inspire, to be a wake-up call and to highlight individuals that are striving to take their surf industry back in a more responsible manner. It’s up to us to demand the change that we want to see.”
      But what about making sure your project doesn’t sink you financially? “You have to hustle to make it happen,” Pierce explains. “My wife and I put up all the money. It cost us $9,000 for a film that should have cost ten times as much. I called in every favour from every friend I had. The support we received was overwhelming because people believed in the message. It renewed my hope. I’m an independent filmmaker. I’m in this for the love of surfing and cinema.”
      Like the music industry, which suffered these pains first, the solution seems two-fold: embrace the digital as well as the tangible experience. Outlets for downloading and streaming content like thesurfnetwork.com are offering a monetised lifeline to the filmmaker, while the growth in popularity of surf film festivals playing to packed houses in New York, London, San Sebastian and beyond, demonstrates the desire we have to engage with the offline movie experience – and with each other.
      “There is an increasing appetite for people to connect and feel a part of something,” explains Tyler. “We live in a world that is becoming more isolated in terms of human interactions. We buy our stuff online instead of going to a store. We watch movies on our computers. We’ve cut ourselves off. We need to get that connection and surf movies are a great way for us to come together on a more human level.”
      Last year’s outstanding film on the festival circuit, Come Hell or High Water, was an independent production made with the backing of two surf brands. Shot on 35mm this was an artistic endeavour that focused on a marginalised, uncommercialised section of the waveriding world: bodysurfing. And there wasn’t a board logo in sight. Now, that, if anything is a sign of hope.