SBBC Event #3 El Porto - Beyond Stoked

I was in the first heat of the day on the secondary bank which was the peak right in front of the Manhattan Beach 42nd st. life guard tower at El Porto. The swell was big, shifty and there were long lefts and occasional rights. Sometimes the sets just closed out and sometimes there would be a corner. The morning high tide was definitely helping the shape out, but it was also making it harder to get on the waves.  Since I was in the first heat I got to do a water start and paddle out before our heat actually started. The surf was big enough they could've probably allowed a water start all day, but that wasn't the call. 

Photos by @Wood_Brain

Steve and I paddled out and we saw Julian shortly after the horn sounded. He snagged a nice noseride on the inside and got a 6.00 on a medium size wave. I took off on nice rolly wave and ran the nose of hand 10, but it just too soft and the wave rolled on without me. Same happened to Steve on big set, he got caught up too high on the wave it just roll on by. Julian was getting solid rides as usual and got first in the heat. I wasn't that concerned about it since all three of us would advance to the finals. I did get a nice nose ride and layback on my 3rd wave getting a 6.07 and that felt good. I knew I just needed to find the right waves with the best shape.

Photo by @Wood_Brain

A few hours later was the Open Longboard finals. The tide had dropped a bit, but it was still sunny and light offshore wind. The sets were big and some closed out and others would swing wide like 40 yards or more and have a corner. I paddled out off to the left next to the flag with Julian. A little more than half way out he passed me and I got stuffed by multiple set waves. I finally made it out side and was way too far south, like in front of the main bank judges tent. I paddled north to the secondary bank and looked for waves. I saw Julian get a wave then Lucas. Then Julian and Lucas again. The time ticked way and I had nothing on the score sheet yet. Just under 8 minutes left in the heat I got my first wave. A clean overhead set going right. I nailed the drop and hit the lip. Then whipped a layback, then did a few drop knee turns on the inside and even a quick nose ride cutbacks. I ended up way the down the beach about 150 yards from where I started. I ran north up the beach and paddled back out near the judges tent again. I heard my friend Steph yelling as I ran by, "Just one more wave like that!" My heart was racing. 

Photos by @Wood_Brain

I got hit again by a few more sets paddling back out and saw Julian get another wave. I knew I had to get a good size wave and make it count. I told myself, ' You only need 2 waves to win.' The sets passed and I made it all the way out and paddled north again. With 4 minutes left on the clock I was still in second place with only 1 wave, but that wouldn't last long. With 3 minutes left Jiro got a wave a bumped me down to 3rd. Then Mario got a wave a bumped me down to 4th. With about 2 minutes on the clock another set roll in. The first one was too far north, the next too far south. The 3rd wave looked like it might hold up and I was committed to get on it. I took off right and started pumping down the line. The wave felt big and powerful like it was double overhead. I made the first section riding high and carved off the lip and head the announcer getting the crowd pumped on my wave. Then I made it farther down the line before it closed out. I busted a quick headstand for the crowed, landed it and stood back up. I rode it all the way to the sand and saw I was just south of  the second judges tent at the main bank 157 yards from where I started.  I was out of time with only 1 minute left in the heat. 

Photos by @Wood_Brain

LZ and Steph were on the sand waiting for final scores to drop. I was stoked I got a bomb and managed to not get drilled out there, but would it be enough. With 8 seconds left on the clock I jumped from 4th to 1st. I did it! I finally got 1st in a South Bay Boardriders Club Open Longboard contest. And in big surf, and against great surfers like Julian who is pro surfer from Hawaii. Mark Brog and Justin from Soul Performance rushed over to congratulate me, stoked! Steve Bender ran over and I told him it was my first time getting first at SBBC in open Longboard. I was beyond Stoked. Lots of pats on the backs and smiles and cheers came from my friends and beach goers. I returned my jersey and went back to the car and changed. 

About a half hour later they announced the winners for the Open Longboard division and I got to finally stand on that 1st place podium spot, surrounded by talented athletes and friends. I'm still beyond stoked and I just want to hold onto this feeling for as long as I can.