Showing posts with label SBBC. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SBBC. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 25, 2026

Stoke Factor Five - 10,340 Waves

Since March of 2015 I have tracked over 10340 waves ridden. Almost one third of those 10340 waves were ridden in 2025. I started tracking my surf stats and adventures on January 1st, 2012. Over the years I've added more data points to help me track trends and discover new goals and personal best records to break. In March 2015, I got the RipCurl GPS surf watch which opened the doors to a lot more data worth tracking like; waves, top speed, distance, time duration, and longest wave. Later I learned there was a surf session playback feature where you could replay a session. That allowed me to track the slower and shorter waves ridden and helped increase my trackable wave count. 



Some of those years between 2015 and 2025 had low wave counts. Some months had no waves ridden at all.  Wether that was because of injuries, working from predawn till after dark, depression, bad weather, or other priority responsibilities. 2025 was a huge opportunity year for me for many reasons.  I took the year off work to focus on recovering for injuries that put me in the ICU more than once. I figured I earned a little time off to catch up on living since I almost died twice from surgery complications. I was also trying to find that silver lining around getting laid off work at the end of 2024 after 24 years of service. I wanted to look back at 2025 and know that I used my time off as best as I could, focusing on the things I love most.


On January 1st I set a goal to try and surf 15 days a month. Sure, there were days that had very short surf sessions with very low wave counts, but at least I was putting in the effort to power thru the pain and funk. I rode more waves (326 waves) in February 2025 than I did for the entire year of 2018 (277 waves). Actually I broke my personal best wave count high scores six out of the 12 months (in 2025). There were three factors that helped my wave count go up. The first was my wife would go to the beach with me and shoot photos and videos of me surfing. The second was I set that goal to try and surf 15 days a month. The third was I signed up to compete in the South Bay Boardriders Surf Series for Open Longboard.  


2025-12-13 Porto contest - Steve Gaffney

I met so many great people thru the SBBC Surf and Paddle Series. All those contests had their own ups and downs. I did my best to take whatever lessons learned I could find. One open Longboard contest at El Porto had big waves that caused some PTSD to resurface from surf trauma from years ago. I had to learn new techniques to navigate my emotions in dangerous surf conditions. I learned of tapping and meditation techniques to release fear and refocus on the postivitives that had control of in those dangerous moments. A few contests later I was back at El Porto on a big day and caught a huge wave that finally broke my Top Speed record that had been holding since March 2015 (17.3 MPH). My friend Steph said that was one of the biggest waves I he'd seen me ride. At 18 MPH it was now one of the fastest too. 


South Bay Boardriders Club Event #4 on 3/15/25 at Porto

I hit 18 MPH fastest wave for my stats and stoked to finally beat that first day in March of 2015! I ended up placing 3rd over all in the final.





I rode 22 different surfboards in 2025. I also broke my 11 of my personal best records for most waves surfed. The vast majority of those waves were ridden on longboards, but I still got some in waves on my hybrids, shortboards, prone paddle boards, and even body surfing too.  I got to ride a few of the hallow wooden surfboards my wife and I made together. 


GSurfShot


BROG Soul Performance 2025 12 23

No Bad Tides by Eric Cedeno

I got the chance to test drive this custom 9'1 carbon fiber/ Cork longboard shaped by Mark Brog at Soul Performance. It has a deep spoon with channels in the nose that make nose riding stable and fast. Check them out at https://soulperformance.com

In June 2025 I rediscovered prone paddling. I had paddled a two times in 2017 and once in 2018 on a 16'6" Bark unlimited, but didn't stick with it and sold my board in 2020. After the South Bay Boardriders Club (SBBC) Surf Series ended the Prone Paddle Series started. I borrowed a 12' stock board from my friend and entered my first 2 mile race ever. I ended up getting 1st place for my age and division and was hooked. I entered all the 2 miles races for the season and got 1st place for my age/division in every race. I also joined a relay team and together we got 2nd place in the 22 mile Rock to Rock race from Catalina Island to Cabrillo Beach. 





Prone paddling is such a good way to stack up ocean miles in my stats, including waves ridden. In 2025 I tracked 157 waves in 88 sessions on a range of prone paddle boards. I paddled everything from Stock 12', 14' and 16'+ Unlimited. It feels like prone paddling is two times easier than surfing. Even my wife took up prone paddling with me and I collected stats for her too.  I have two RipCurl GSP watches so I can get data for her and I both. She got 42 waves and covered just over 230 miles from June thru the end of December. She really enjoys paddling with me and it cracks her up when she beats my top MPH for a session. I swear her watch is broken and not tracking correctly, but I still write down her stats. It's worth it to see that big glowing smile.


Prone Paddling at Redondo King Harbor

It's been incredibly fun prone paddling with ‪@wood_brain‬ this summer. I feel like I'm in the best shape of my life and I'm looking forward to the next season of competitive surfing and paddling.


Tuesday, February 3, 2026

SBBC Event #3 El Porto - Beyond Stoked

I was in the first heat of the day on the secondary bank which was the peak right in front of the Manhattan Beach 42nd st. life guard tower at El Porto. The swell was big, shifty and there were long lefts and occasional rights. Sometimes the sets just closed out and sometimes there would be a corner. The morning high tide was definitely helping the shape out, but it was also making it harder to get on the waves.  Since I was in the first heat I got to do a water start and paddle out before our heat actually started. The surf was big enough they could've probably allowed a water start all day, but that wasn't the call. 


Photos by @Wood_Brain



Steve and I paddled out and we saw Julian shortly after the horn sounded. He snagged a nice noseride on the inside and got a 6.00 on a medium size wave. I took off on nice rolly wave and ran the nose of hand 10, but it just too soft and the wave rolled on without me. Same happened to Steve on big set, he got caught up too high on the wave it just roll on by. Julian was getting solid rides as usual and got first in the heat. I wasn't that concerned about it since all three of us would advance to the finals. I did get a nice nose ride and layback on my 3rd wave getting a 6.07 and that felt good. I knew I just needed to find the right waves with the best shape.

Photo by @Wood_Brain

A few hours later was the Open Longboard finals. The tide had dropped a bit, but it was still sunny and light offshore wind. The sets were big and some closed out and others would swing wide like 40 yards or more and have a corner. I paddled out off to the left next to the flag with Julian. A little more than half way out he passed me and I got stuffed by multiple set waves. I finally made it out side and was way too far south, like in front of the main bank judges tent. I paddled north to the secondary bank and looked for waves. I saw Julian get a wave then Lucas. Then Julian and Lucas again. The time ticked way and I had nothing on the score sheet yet. Just under 8 minutes left in the heat I got my first wave. A clean overhead set going right. I nailed the drop and hit the lip. Then whipped a layback, then did a few drop knee turns on the inside and even a quick nose ride cutbacks. I ended up way the down the beach about 150 yards from where I started. I ran north up the beach and paddled back out near the judges tent again. I heard my friend Steph yelling as I ran by, "Just one more wave like that!" My heart was racing. 



Photos by @Wood_Brain


I got hit again by a few more sets paddling back out and saw Julian get another wave. I knew I had to get a good size wave and make it count. I told myself, ' You only need 2 waves to win.' The sets passed and I made it all the way out and paddled north again. With 4 minutes left on the clock I was still in second place with only 1 wave, but that wouldn't last long. With 3 minutes left Jiro got a wave a bumped me down to 3rd. Then Mario got a wave a bumped me down to 4th. With about 2 minutes on the clock another set roll in. The first one was too far north, the next too far south. The 3rd wave looked like it might hold up and I was committed to get on it. I took off right and started pumping down the line. The wave felt big and powerful like it was double overhead. I made the first section riding high and carved off the lip and head the announcer getting the crowd pumped on my wave. Then I made it farther down the line before it closed out. I busted a quick headstand for the crowed, landed it and stood back up. I rode it all the way to the sand and saw I was just south of  the second judges tent at the main bank 157 yards from where I started.  I was out of time with only 1 minute left in the heat. 



Photos by @Wood_Brain


LZ and Steph were on the sand waiting for final scores to drop. I was stoked I got a bomb and managed to not get drilled out there, but would it be enough. With 8 seconds left on the clock I jumped from 4th to 1st. I did it! I finally got 1st in a South Bay Boardriders Club Open Longboard contest. And in big surf, and against great surfers like Julian who is pro surfer from Hawaii. Mark Brog and Justin from Soul Performance rushed over to congratulate me, stoked! Steve Bender ran over and I told him it was my first time getting first at SBBC in open Longboard. I was beyond Stoked. Lots of pats on the backs and smiles and cheers came from my friends and beach goers. I returned my jersey and went back to the car and changed. 


About a half hour later they announced the winners for the Open Longboard division and I got to finally stand on that 1st place podium spot, surrounded by talented athletes and friends. I'm still beyond stoked and I just want to hold onto this feeling for as long as I can. 


Monday, January 5, 2026

Ratopia Charity Surf Contest 2025 - Open Longboard

Ratopia Charity Surf Contest 2025
 

I can't help but think about how far I've come since last years Ratopia Charity Surf contest. I went from being broken and recovering from multiple life threatening injuries to the most fit I've been since high school. I put in over 700 ocean miles in between surfing and prone paddling in 2025, and thats more that I did for the last 8 years combined! Needless to say the last few years have been the hardest with life altering physical injuries that put me in the ICU more than once. Plus what felt like endless doctor appointments, tons of allergy tests, physical therapy, and mental therapy.  Some doctors told me I should never surf again, because I could die. I had to get stronger, I wasn't giving up on surfing. I added so many lifestyle changes just so that I could keep surfing. Surfing has been one of the most things I've done continually for 35 years and I wasn't about to give that up.


Ratopia 2024


The 2024 Ratopia contest was the first longboard contest I had entered in decades. My body was wrecked. I had shooting pains running down my lower back and right side. It was a challenge to just carry by board from the parking lot to the contest area. The surf that year was a cold 2-3'+ and closing out with just a few seconds to try and make something happen that would score some points. I did get 7 waves in those 15 minutes, but ate it on half of them. I never eat it that much, it was so frustrating. I ended up getting 4th in my heat and didn't even advance to the finals. I became determined to do better, and advance my way to a top three podium finish. 





I started entering the South Bay Boardriders Club Surf series for Open Longboard in the early months of 2025. I got up on the podium a few times during the season, but never hit that 1st place spot. I even placed 3rd for the entire season and that felt like a huge achievement. I was still chasing a 1st place finish in the finals and I was running out of time to hit that goal in 2025.  As soon as Ratopia posted the sign up sheet for the 2025 annual charity even I signed up. Then I checked the surf forecast. It was showing a huge storm hitting days before the contest and I wasn't sure if they were going to reschedule due to rain or heavy surf.




I felt pretty good the night before the 2025 Ratopia charity surf contest night. I wrote back and forth to Nick Webber the guy putting on the event, because I found in error in the heat times and let him know about it. First there was two longboard heats but a bunch of people backed out last minute and then there was just one hit and Nick said it would just be a finals heat. I'm good with that, since last year (2024) I didn't even make it to the final. I felt fit and ready. Like I said, I had put in over 700 ocean miles in between surfing and prone paddling this year. Plus I had 10 surf contest under my belt now in all kinds of surf conditions. I fell asleep thinking about the contest and how it was going to feel getting that 1st place win.


Ratopia Charity Surf Contest 2025



The next morning my wife and I got down to the Torrance parking lot around 7:30 am. I ran into a handful of SBBC guys that were going to judge the event and they wished me luck. I saw a few more friends in the parking lot as I was suiting up for my heat. The surf was big and crunchy. The sets were huge closeout barrels that just dumped. My plan was the same as the last final I was in a few weeks ago. Get out there, skip the big closeout sets and get back inside to the in-betweeners. 


Ratopia Charity Surf Contest 2025

I stuck to the plan. I got nervous more than once and just reminded myself that only needed two waves. I got a long right with a noseride and cutback with a floater finish. Then ran down the beach to paddle out in front of the judges again. I got 3 more waves before the horn sounded to end the heat. Stoked. Finally, after nearly 30 years, including all the surf events I did this year I finally got 1st place in open longboard. It was the best way to end 2025. Now I'm hoping that I'll keep that momentum going in 2026.