Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Classic Hawaiian Style from 1967...

Found this classic surf movie clip from 1967... It's pretty cool- Check it out:

GREG NOLL RICKY GRIGGS Surfing Hawaii 1967 Piapo Board

Sunday, April 28, 2013

Stacking Rocks in San Pedro 4-26-13... By Eric Cedeno

I heard the surf was small everywhere so I ended up skipping the morning flat surf session and went for a little hike in San Pedro instead. I saw two SUP boarders paddle around the point and they ended up surfing the little waves that would roll in now and then. I tried my luck at stacking some rocks and I think I did pretty good for a beginner.

San Pedro 4-26-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

After the hike I ended up going out to breakfast at Pacific Diner in San Pedro. Pacific Diner has the best steak and eggs on the planet. All in all in was a good way to start out my day. I think I'll look into trying out one of those SUP boards sometime soon. It looked like a fun time in the small surf. I'll keep you posted-

Sunday, April 14, 2013

4-12-13 - Friday Late Morning Session at Torrance

I heard burnout might be fun so I headed down to the beach. I did look pretty fun, a little fast and there was only a few guys surfing in the area. I looked for the usual free parking and couldn't find anything close so I drove south to Torrance Beach.

Burnout 4-12-13 Photo by Eric Cedeno

It was less crowded and looked like it would be fun on a longboard. I got good free parking near the top of the ramp and snapped a quick picture before heading down to the water.

Torrance Beach 4-12-13 Photo by Eric Cedeno

The surf was around head high but was tricky to catch. You really had to commit in the right spot and have the right board to catch the waves. For the most part it was just me and one other longboarder catching all the waves. Every now and then a few others would paddle out but I don't remember them catching any of the good sets. I surfed for about two hours and came in. The shore pound was real heavy and I had to time the waves just right to get back on the sand safely.

Torrance Beach 4-12-13 Photo by Eric Cedeno

This guy didn't time it right and broke his board in half. I felt bad for him even though he was still smiling. I could tell he was new to surfing and this was just one of many lessons that he'd have to learn.

Friday, March 29, 2013

Same Story... Different Perspective

These guys are nuts, even by todays standards... Check them out:

the real big wednesday(outside pipeline)very rare clip

supertonesurf Uploaded on Aug 12, 2006

(the first surfers to ride outside pipeline)ricky grigg, mike stang and greg noll.ricky grigg gets the wave of the day.from the surf movie blue surf-ari, a very rare flim from the 60's

Third Reef Pipeline - 1964

Lucas Ávila Búrigo Surfers: Greg Noll & Mike Stange

Greg Noll and Gerry Lopez talks about Bob Mctavish

Here's a good little story about the transition from longboarding to shortboarding from Da Bull and Jerry... Check it out:

Greg Noll on Bob Mctavish at Sunset Beach

Jason Blewitt Uploaded on Jan 26, 2010

Greg Noll talks about the effect of Bob Mctavish's day at Sunset Beach when he rode the shortest board ever ridden at that point in time.

Gerry Lopez on Mctavish Sunset ride

Jason Blewitt Uploaded on Feb 4, 2010

Gerry talks about Bob Mctavish's first wave at Sunset Beach on that shorter board.

Tuesday, March 26, 2013

George Greenough .... He's One Cool Cat... By Eric Cedeno

This is what I found out about him on http://en.wikipedia.org

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

George Greenough is an innovative surfer and cinematographer from Santa Barbara, California who now resides in Byron Bay in New South Wales,Australia. He was born to a wealthy family but despised its trappings and spent most of his time in the ocean. Greenough is best known for creating the modern surfboard fin. He altered the design from a wide-based, cumbersome keel to a more powerful and efficient dolphin fin-like foil.

In the 1960s Greenough's equipment was distinctly different from the longboard design of the day, and he rode short kneeboards under 5' 5" and air mattresses regularly. He is credited as being the best mat rider ever, and still surfs the unique waveriding craft. His most famous board was a fiberglass spoon using only small amounts of buoyant foam, shaped kneeboard he christened "Velo". Greenough is also known as a genius level inventor and the master of fiberglass engineering, design, and construction, having used the material to build surfboards, camera housings, and boats.

In the late 1960s and early 1970s, Greenough released two feature films The Innermost Limits of Pure Fun and Crystal Voyager. His footage above and below the water were personally selected by the members of Pink Floyd as the imagery for their "Echoes" film after the group saw Crystal Voyager, which used the Pink Floyd track as the music for the final sequence of the movie. Greenough is also featured in an early scene in Bruce Brown's surf film The Endless Summer.

Check out some footage from his films:

Crystal Voyager (1973)

ALSSurfProductions Uploaded on Dec 5, 2009

A 10-minute editing of one of my favorite surf films, shot by the creative and talented George Greenough. Great soundtrack including "Echoes" by Pink Floyd, and other songs by G. Wayne Thomas and Bobby Gibbert

Crystal Voyager 1973. Filmed, written and narrated by surfer, photographer and filmmaker George Greenough. Directed by David Elfick.

Band of Frequencies - All I've Found (film by George Greenough)

lowpressurevision Published on Jun 17, 2012

Innovation and inspiration trickles down through generations and when the pioneers collaborate in a cross generational project there is a timeless spark that reverberates through the ether. Band of Frequencies have been cultivating those sparks through a long term collaboration with one of the greatest legends of oceanic cinematography and surf craft design, George Greenough.

Georges seminal surf film 'The Inner Most Limits of Pure Fun' influenced a whole generation of filmmakers. It was filmed in the late 1960's and featured the first ever footage taken from inside the tube, giving surfers and non-surfers alike the unique perspective from the inside out on film. George captured those shots on his own hand crafted, custom made waterproof housing for an ex army issue 16mm film camera. He filmed whilst riding either his handcrafted high-tech 'Spoon' surf craft called 'Velo' or an inflatable surf mat.

The Innermost Limits film also documents the shortening of surfboards due to Georges surfing and design influence and features the first examples of his flexible high aspect ratio surfboard fins (as seen in this clip) modeled off fish fins that revolutionised modern surfboard performance and surfing period. He went on to film for Hollywoods 'Big Wednesday', created 'Crystal Voyager' and also collaborated with Pink Floyd on 'Echoes' that was used as part of their groundbreaking live show for years.

Shannon Sol Carroll and Band of Frequencies have worked with George Greenough creating soundtracks for two short films, 'Deep Tube Riding' and Wipeout', over the last two years which then lead to this collaboration for the bands latest single 'All I've Found'. The film was cut and edited by George himself and features previously unreleased footage from his archives filmed in Australia and California in the late 60's.

Having just recently previewed the film clip down the Californian coast as part of the TransparentSea Voyage (transparentseavoyage.com) and at the North Shore Surf Film Festival in Hawaii, Band of Frequencies are stoked to be officially releasing it Worldwide for your pleasure and edification.

All I've found: Lyrics by S. S. Carroll

I'm on the road I'm on the move,
Nothing to gain, nothing to lose
If I don't go now I'll never know

Wind in my hair ease my mind
Leave my troubles way behind
If I don't go now I'll never know

All I've found
I've found through pushing on
Rise again and move beyond
And this journey never ends.

Spinning wheels, spinning tunes
Bring me life. Bring me truth
If I don't go now I'll never know

Nothing is gonna hold me back
Freedom calls me off the beaten track
If I don't go now I'll never know

All I've found
I've found through pushing on
Rise again and move beyond
For this journey never ends.

We're onward bound
Yeah we're bound to evolve
As these wheels do revolve
Will you ride with me my friend

Oh this journey never ends
Will you ride with me my friend
Who knows what's around the next bend.

Credits:
Shannon Sol Carroll - Guitar & Lead Vocal
Oj Newcomb - Bass & BV
Mark Henman - Drums & BV

Written by Shannon Sol Carroll & Band of Frequencies
Recorded, Mixed & Produced by Jeff Lovejoy @ Blackbox Recording
Co-Produced by Oj Newcomb & Sol Carroll

Film clip by George Greenough

A limited edition 'All I've Found' EP with a frame grab of Greenough on the front cover is available for a short time only at switch-foot.com

It's also available to download at:
lowpressureproductions.bandcamp.com/album/all-ive-found-ep

Stay informed about Band of Freq's future movements via:
www.bandoffrequencies.com & facebook.com/bandoffrequencies

Monday, March 25, 2013

Sunday Sunday Sunday Surf Surf Surf With X-Man the Great! 3-24-13... By Eric Cedeno

I could tell today just wasn't as good as yesterday when I was standing at the top of the hill to check it out, but there were three reasons that made me want to paddle out. (1) It was nice and sunny with just a few people out surfing, (2) I remembered to bring the new 6'4" Lost board that I haven't ridden yet and the one that sealed the deal was (3) I had my own Surf Photographer with me "X-Man the Great!"

Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

I had four boards in my Honda Element (1) 7'10" Noserider, 7'4" Hybrid, 6'10" mini log and the new 6'4" Lost board. I grabbed both the 6'10" mini log and the new 6'4" Lost board and headed down to the sand to suit up while X-man set up the photo gear. He was using a Canon 7D on a tripod and really captured the day. The surf was all over the place and it was hard to be in the right spot at the right time. Then I'd look down the line and see a good one and I knew more would come.

Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man

Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man

I pretty much had the place to my self. I know there was two or three other people out there, but there was plenty of room for everyone...

Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man

The back wash was really heavy and sometimes it would really give you a kicking. I managed to pull this one off and made it all the way in...

Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man

Another nice wave calling me over there...

Eric Cedeno Surfing Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man

I rode the new lost board for about an hour then switched over to the 6'10" just to take the PEPSI Challenge. All in all I had a good time and was stoked to finally ride the new Lost board. It was super fast and felt good. The 6'10" made it easier to get into the wave earlier, but it was harder to duck dive (I knew that was going to happen). I'm really looking forward to trying it out on some better shaped waves soon. Hopefully I'll have X-man the Great there to take some more pictures of me in action... I'll keep you posted!