Showing posts with label TSJ. Show all posts
Showing posts with label TSJ. Show all posts

Friday, September 5, 2014

Curren's Foam Ball Creedling (via the Surfer's Journal)

By TSJ

"He was all about the pedicure," laughed photographer Shawn Parkin after his first-ever trip with Tom Curren. Arriving in southern mainland Mex in the dead of summer, the heat was nearly unbearable and Curren, being the savvy traveler he is, sought refuge in the only air-conditioned place he could think of: a salon. When he wasn't being pampered, Curren and fellow traveler Tyler Warren put a variety of unique planing hulls to good use, drawing clean lines and parking it on the foam ball when they couldn't stand the sun any longer.

Sunday, July 27, 2014

"The One-Legged Bastard" (via the surfer's journal)

bastard
By TSJ
As far as gaining some perspective on the man vs. fish trend that's permeating the waterman culture as of late, there's no shortage of reasons to pickup The Evolution of Freediving and History of Spearfishing in Hawai'i by Sonny Tanabe. Included in the 200-page book are the story of Dr. Terry Maas' record-setting 398-pound Bluefin speared off of Guadalupe Island in 1982 (which served as the cover photo for his seminal Blue Water Hunters), the story of the first purge valve masks, and all of the other deep water exploits that 100 years underwater have brought us.
Also included is a short, one-page story about the relatively obscure Del Wren, which both captivates and inspires. Born in Rochester, New York, in 1925, Wren ran away from home at 13. By the time World War II rolled around, he found himself serving in the Pacific theater. After the war he spent a brief stint in Oregon as a logger, where an accident took his left leg in 1946. Undeterred, shortly thereafter he moved to California and began diving. By 1958 he won his first U.S. National Spearfishing title, and the following year Wren and the U.S. team would finish third at the World Spearfishing Championships in Malta. 
As the story goes, Wren was sick with the flu during a competition in 1954 and had decided to stop fishing early. Laid up on the beach under a towel, when it came time to announce the winners one of his fellow divers announced that Wren's 45-pound catch was enough for the victory. That's when his old nemisis Charlie Sturgill exclaimed, "That one-legged bastard, that's who won?" Thus a nickname was born. 
The above photo of Wren was taken in 1953 and features his own handwriting depicting the adaptations he made to his equipment to become a successful spear fisherman. "To stay in top diving shape Wren practiced breathing exercise, did push-ups, and swam at least four times a week," writes Tanabe. "He preferred to use a Duck Feet fin. His accomplishments in the sport are amazing."

Friday, May 2, 2014

Ripple Effect (Via the Surfer's Journal)

By Jake Howard

It's too easy to get consumed with our own surfing lives. Chasing swell, dialing boards in, and all that. But lest we forget, there's a pure and simple joy in standing up on a lump of water and rushing shoreward. And that's an easy, possibly life changing thing to share. Enter the "Ripple Effect."
For anybody that's spent some time in the San Francisco Bay Area, you maybe be familiar with the handiwork of Tim Gras. He operates Gras Surfboards while moonlighting as a community organizer in underprivileged areas around the city. Partnering up with Ian Glover, owner of the Big Dog Surf Camp, the two have begun arranging surf missions for kids from Sunnydale, the low income neighborhood near the Cow Palace. Getting word of the project, filmmaker Adam Warmington got involved and began documenting Gras and Glover's conversations with young, inner-city kids about their struggles. The area's rife with drugs, murders, and hardscrabble pressures. As one kid explains, “It makes you feel like your head’s gonna explode.”
"We can't pretend to fix all of the problems inner city kids face. What we can do is give them a fun day out," notes Gras.
Should you feel compelled, get involved at Rally.org/rippleeffect.

I think Jake Howard reminds us all that we all just ant a fun day out. Race should have nothing to do with it, but for many years race was and in some places, still is an issue. The documentary "White Wash" tells us the story of the black surfers in California and other coastal areas that paved the way for todays surfers (black /white/ tan / not so tan/ odd man out). You can see it on Netflix like I did or start searching for it out there on the internet, I'm sure you'll dig it.

White Wash - OFFICIAL TRAILER - SURF





Published on Dec 20, 2012
White Wash, the documentary, is a film exploring the complexity of race in America through the eyes of the ocean. Examining the history of "black consciousness" as it triumphs and evolves into the minds of black surfers, we learn the power of transcending race as a constructive phenomenon. The story is narrated by the legendary, Grammy Award winner Ben Harper (Fistful of Mercy, Relentless 7, Ben Harper and the Innocent Criminals) along with Tariq "Blackthought" Trotter of the Grammy Award winning hip hop group, The Roots whom also originally scored the film.

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Friday, April 25, 2014

Finless In Abu Dhabi (via the surfer's journal)


By TSJ
The wave's as good as any day at The Wall. It's missing the palm trees swaying in the breeze and aging beach boys hustling tourists, but there is sand. Plenty of it. You'll find this wedge on the other side of the world, dug out of one of the planet's most inhospitable deserts. Noa Ginella, Wadi pool sliding outside of Abu Dhabi.

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Much Better Now (via the surfer's journal)

By TSJ
The description reads: "A bookmark is stuck in a forgotten book that is one day knocked over by wind. It experiences its environment by surfing the pages that turn in to ocean-waves, enjoying the ride of its life. As the book cover closes light reveals new challenges."
We thought you'd like it.