140 Miles Round Trip to Surf Two Breaks... By Eric Cedeno

This is how my day ended..

El Porto 5-2-13 By Eric Cedeno

This is how it started...

I heard from a few friends that there was going to be some fun head high surf down at O'fre on Thursday 5-2-2013 so I did what any good red blooded american would do... I took the day off work to go surf. I was going to car pool with my buddy Skip, but he wasn't returning my phone calls, text messages or smoke signals so I went with out him. He finally called me when I was almost half way down to San Clemente and said he was out side my place waiting for me. I said I couldn't wait any longer and was on my way down and that I'd call him and left him know how the surf was when I got there. 

Traffic was really bad in Huntington Beach on the 405 and I was averaging 7 miles an hour. I lost track of time more than once and wished I had left my house earlier. The traffic let up around Mac Author airport and I felt like was was gaining ground again. I slowed down just a little as I was nearing the last few exits. Time slowed as I was passing a cop sitting on the shoulder with his radar gun pointed in my direction. I saw him put the gun down and quickly merge into traffic. I was in the second lane (closest to the exiting /slow lane). The cop weaved his way through traffic and I thought I was a goner as I attempted to drive at 67 miles an hour. He was just two cars back and one lane farther over when a grey SUV speeded by and got just in front of me. To my left the cop put on his lights and I slowed down to 62, not sure if he was going to bust me or the guy in front of me. I cop got behind the other guy and pulled him over on my exit ramp. That was too close for comfort.

There was only four cars ahead of me in line and that meant the parking lot was full. It didn't take long for me to pay my $15 bucks to get in. As I drove down the hill I snapped a quick picture of the surf peeling.

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

The surf was clean and I could tell it was going to be a good time and was worth the drive after all. 

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

I found pretty good parking and was surprised that there weren't that many people out in the water. I heard that wind was off-shore earlier and yesterday it was best around 4:00 pm. I call Skip a few more times and took a few minutes to soak up some sun and decide on which board to take out. I brought my 9'0" longboard, 7'4" hybrid, 6'10" mini-log and the 6'4" new lost fish. I ended up going with my 9'0"it seemed right for the slow waves and long paddle. 

I surfed my 9'0" for about two hours and ran into Skip in the line up near "four doors." Actually I saw a lot of friends out there, Kimmy from 26th street manhattan, and a hand full of the boys from Torrance / Redondo including Mike Purpus (Southbay Pro-Surfer from the 60's and 70's). 

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

My arms were getting a little tired so I took a wave in and drank another liter of Smart-Water to rehydrate. Then I swapped boards and headed back out on my 6'10" mini-log. On my way out I was Mike shredding a nice right all the way to the inside were he pulled off and paddled right back out again. The I saw Skip killing it on his longboard, cut backs, off the lips really dialed in. It all motivated me to get out there quickly. I said hi the guys again and caught a good right with Mike Purpus in front of me. The wave was big enough to share and I was hitting the lip down the line as he was on the nose in style- awesome!

Eventually I paddled farther north and surfed that left that I saw when I first drove down the hill. That was the best spot for me. I caught some great sets thirty yards out past everyone else and really got my board moving, late take-offs, bit bottom turns, long off the lips. It was the best waves my board had seen in a long time.

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

After surfing for almost four hours straight I made my way back to my car and had to eat and rehydrate again. I was tired and took a nap in my car and listened to the rolling set waves thunder in every so often. Around 3:30 I decided not to paddle back out for another session, my arms were just too tired. I knew if I paddled back out then I might not have enough energy for the drive back home. So i sat in the sun just a little longer then packed up and headed out.

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

I snapped this quick picture on my way out, trestles was going off- all day. I'm sure it was a zoo over there. I was happy with what I got and headed for the freeway. 

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

It was just as I was hoping that it wouldn't be... Lots of traffic, for miles, 7 miles an hour again, stop, go. people cutting others off to try and get ahead just to be passed again. It took over two hours to get near my home and by then I was pissed off, traffic does that to me. So I stayed on the 405 for a little longer and got off on the 105 freeway and headed straight for El Porto. 

El Porto 5-2-13 By Eric Cedeno

I figured the swell would be smaller here than O'fre but still still be the best spot in the southbay for this swell direction. Plus I had a few hours to rest up in traffic. The surf was 2-3 foot and a little mushy at first, but I got better and the lefts were holding up pretty good. I surf for another hour and a half before going in.

El Porto 5-2-13 By Eric Cedeno

I guess there was a fire going and the smoke was covering up the sun as it was setting. It made for a good picture, but I couldn't help but worry about the people that live closer to that area. Hope they are all ok. I'll keep you posted-

A Bunch of Rights to Myself..By Eric Cedeno

3-23-13

I waited for the morning high tide to drop a little before I headed down to the beach. I couldn't find any parking at Topaz so i headed south and parked at Avenue A. The surf had really calmed down from the day before and I was surprised at how strong the offshore wind was blowing. I had a few board to choose from. I thought I had grabbed the 6' 4" new Lost board when I loaded up, but I grabbed my 6'4" Mel Machine instead. I ended up taking out my 6'10" mini log again. It felt like the right board for today. I suited up and made my way down the ramp and to the sand. I jogged north towards Knob Hill where I found a hole where a good right was consistently breaking. I was surprised no one else was surfing it. I had it all to myself. I caught a few in and outs and had a really good time by myself. I heard that Manhattan was firing and hoped that the surf would stick around for another day. I guess I'll find out tomorrow...

Doctors Orders - Go Surf.. By Eric Cedeno

I went to the doctors the other day because I wasn't feeling very well, figured it was time for a check up. Turns out I have high blood pressure right now. It's the first time in my life that ever remember having high blood pressure. Usually I'm super mellow and not stress out, but lately life has been a bit rough. My Doctor ask me if had gone surfing lately and I have to think about and suddenly realized that the last time I went out surfing was on 9-16-12 (Read all about it) over a month ago. So my Doctor said I shouldn't be out of the water that long and ordered me to surf and relax and said that I have to make time surf.

I have to admit that I didn't realize that it's been that long, but now surfing is all I think about and that's a good start. I woke up around 7:00 am and it was still dark out. I looked online at the surf in Torrance and the report was calling it 1-3 foot and walled. I figured I'd better go surf and make the best of it and that should help mellow me out again (Doctors orders).

I loaded my 7'10" noserider and 6'10 mini-log in my car and headed for the beach. I did a quick surf check and I could tell right away there was waves out there, but the surf report was right (for once) it was walled, but now and then a clean zippy barrel would find its way to shore. I figured I'd ride my 6' 10" mini-log that Jamie from Open Ocean made me a while back (I love that board).

 I caught a few fast ones right away and felt a little rusty, but happy. I found a good hole where the right were coming in clean and waited. I saw the familiar ripple on the horizon and new a set was on its way. I paddled a little farther out. It was lining up good as I paddled deep for the one of the better waves of the day. I popped up easily to my feet and took the drop casually dragging right hand in the water as the wave section and pitched out wide high above me. My mind took a mental picture that of the was curling a few feet out of my reach as another guy was paddling out over the shoulder pointing at me smiling. I didn't make it out of that one, but it was worth it.

I caught a few more fun ones here and there as the tide slowed thing down even more. The waves seem smaller than earlier and pretty much most of them were all walled up. I saw a fun little wave making its way to me and it looked like this one was going to hold up. I paddled into the shoulder high wave and after standing up quickly pulled into the pocket and stayed there... all the way in...I escaped from the barrel just a few feet from shore. "Now that's a good wave to end a session," said the guy hanging out on the shore line and happily agreed and thanked him.

12 Hours and 15 Minutes of Vitamin D at Bolsa Chica on 9-8-12 by Eric Cedeno

Saturday 9-8-12:  Bolsa Chica 2-3’

I finally went to sleep just after midnight Friday night and almost forgot about meeting up with my friends to surf Bola Chica the next morning. I woke up a little sore and very thirsty Saturday morning at 7:45 am after getting a call from my friend Cliff who was also running late. I quickly loaded 3 boards in my Honda Element (9’ longboard, 7'10” noserider and my 6'10" mini log) so I'd have some basic board options in the smaller waves conditions that I was expecting. I grabbed a banana and two bottles of water and was on the road at 8:05 am. I headed south on the 405 freeway and arrived at Bolsa Chica tower 23 just after 8:30 am. I didn’t see my friends in the parking lot so I called Cliff and he said that they had moved down to Tower 22. I hopped back in my car and moved over to Tower 22 and found the all the familiar cars that I usually cars that I see in the Manhattan Beach 26^th Street parking lot an any given weekend. Cliff and I did a quick surf check and I decided to take out my 9’ longboard because the surf looked pretty small from shore.

Bolsa Chica 9-8-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 9-8-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

It was nice to see the 26^th street Ohana crew that I used to surf with back in 2005 and 2006. I paddled around and said hi to everyone while catching some fun clean waves. It was a great sunny day with just a little bit of wind and the side current was hardly there at all. There were waves peaking up everywhere, lefts rights, speedy waves and soft shoulders. The sets were good and punchy (fast breaking waves with speedy sections) so I decided to trade in my 9’ longboard with my 6'10" mini log to make it easier to make the late takeoffs on the bigger sets. I was in the groove and having a good time surfing next to Cliff. Cliff was riding his 5’10” fish and after a while I asked him if I could try out his board again since I know he likes my 6’10” he happily agreed. We swapped boards in the line-up and I quickly slapped on his leash and paddled into the first wave that came by. I made the drop, turned right and flew down the line while carving long smooth top to bottoms turns. I really enjoyed the speed and buoyancy of that board and also liked that I got to test drive it in bigger surf than the last time I rode it. After about an hour I got out so I could eat something. 

Bolsa Chica 9-8-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

I drank one of my bottles of water and had a banana. Mahalo made some stir fry and hooked me up with a hot bowl of veggies and sausage fresh off the grill. We busted out the ukuleles in the parking lot and had a jam session in Orlando Man’s van for a while. I did another surf check and was surprised to see that none was out in the water, no surfers anywhere and so I decided to take advantage of that and go out again. I grabbed my 7'10” noserider and headed out just south of Tower 22. The surf was bumpier than earlier now that wind was kicking up more, but that didn’t bother me. 

The surf really reminded me of surfing Florida and making the best of what you have to work with. I would catch a left (back side for me because I’m regular foot / left foot forward) and do a cutback and as I’d turned back into the wave I’d do a switch foot in mid-turn. I imagined the people on the beach didn’t see that very often and I got a kick out of it. I surfed by myself for about two hours without anyone paddling out anywhere. It was weird, and a little lonely. It’s hard to believe that with as crowded as the surf can get these days that I can still get a surf session by myself. I was getting hungry again and decided to re-hydrate so I got out and headed back to the car. A few of the others also have Honda Elements and I was stoked to see how Haku Gene rigged up a board rack inside his car.

Haku Gene's Honda Element Surfboard Rack

Bolsa Chica 9-8-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

I changed out of my spring suit and into some board shorts and drank another bottle of water. Mahalo was cooking up some carne asada and offered me another round of food. I took a quick power nap under Haku Gene’s umbrella on the beach. I woke up when gen handed me one of his ukuleles and we had a little jam session. He showed me how to play “Moondance by Van Morrison” on the ukulele. There was still none out in the water surfing or even swimming. I guess the riptides were getting worse and the fear of stingrays was keeping most of the people out of the water. I talked Haku Gene into paddling out with me for another surf session.  

I always like surfing with him and Cliff, they both can make the best out of surfing anything and we always laugh and have good times. My arms were already tired so I grabbed my 6’10” min log because it’s light and easy to paddle and it is also great in fast or slow waves. The surf was choppy and felt just like any other wind swell day at Topaz. The sets were better than expected and Haku Gene was cracking me up with his no paddle take-offs, a real style master! The sets were easily shoulder high with a quick drop then a flat section followed by a speedy inside section. I was busting some good floaters and those backside cutbacks into switch foots in mid-turn like earlier. We took turns on the best waves and surfed for another two hours. My arms were beat by the time we got out, but totally worth it. 

Bolsa Chica 9-8-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

My arms were nearly useless after surfing all day and I used the last of my strength to pack up my boards and load up my car before it got dark. It was getting colder out and the guys started a fire in the fire pit. I was glad that I had some jeans and sweat shirt in my car, but now I want to go buy a sleeping bag to keep in my car for long surf days and nights like this one. 

Bolsa Chica 9-8-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

There was another round of food for everyone and before long the ukuleles were out and we were jamming again. Diane and a few of the others did a hula, they must’ve had lessons because they were real professionals. It was great to lounge by the fire while we played ukuleles and the kids made smores. I was getting dangerously tired and knew I needed to make my way back home before it got too late so I left the beach at 8:45 pm. I got home in a half hour and fell asleep on the couch moments later.

Riding 4 Boards on 1 Wave at Bolsa Chica... By Eric Cedeno

2-3'+ Bolsa Chica 8-31-12:

By buddy Cliff had made plans to take a trip down to Bolsa Chica to take Jack out surfing for his birthday. Jack is Shelly's kid and we all met up at Cliffs house early in the morning  before heading down to Bolsa Chica for the day.  I had already loaded 4 of my boards in My honda Element (7'6" bear, 7' new Lopez remake and 6'10" mini log and my 6'6" JC retro rocket) so I'd have all the basic board options in the water. I added two of Cliff's boards to the mix at his house (5'10" twin fin fish and 6'2" stinger) and was surprised at how well all six boards fit inside my car.

Cliff loaded up his car with food and a pop-up tent, one extra board and had Shelly and Jack in there too. We stopped off for gas and I grabbed a few extra waters before we headed south on the 405 freeway. Traffic was light at 6:15 am and we made it all the way down to Bolsa Chica pretty quickly. There was no line to get in at the state beach and I just followed Cliff to where ever he wanted to go. We turned south in the long parking lot and finally parked down at the end near Tower 16. There was plenty of parking and the beach was wide open. We did a quick surf check and found the surf to be a peaky 2-3' and it looked super fun. We unpacked our gear and boards and set up camp for the day.

Eric Cedeno at Bolsa Chica 8-31-12

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Jack, Shelly and Cliff
Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Jack is a new surfer and is a surf hungry beginner. Jack had no idea that he was getting his first surfboard (inside the black surf bag in the picture above). He was so stoked! All us guys got ready to surf and I handed off my Canon G10 to Shelly just in case she wanted to take a few pictures of this historic moment of he kid and his first board. I had lots of boards to choose from and picked my 7'6" bear to start the day off in the high tide rolly conditions (easy to get into waves early and can handle slower waves). 

Eric Cedeno and Jack at Bolsa Chica 8-31-12

Eric Cedeno and Jack at Bolsa Chica 8-31-12

Eric Cedeno at Bolsa Chica 8-31-12
Riding the 7'6" Bear

Eric Cedeno at Bolsa Chica 8-31-12
Riding the 7'6" Bear

Cliff at Bolsa Chica 8-31-12
 Riding my 6'10" Mini-log

Eric Cedeno at Bolsa Chica 8-31-12
Riding the 7'6" Bear

Cliff, Eric Cedeno and Jack at Bolsa Chica 8-31-12

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

We had lots of boards to choose from and I took full advantage of that. After riding my 7'6" bear for a while I did a quick board change and grabbed my 6'10" mini-log (also great in rolly waves but can turn faster). I rode that for a while and then cam in for another board change and took out my 7' new Lopez remake as the swell was building (this board rides best in larger waves). After another hour of surfing I went in and changed back to the 6'10" mini-log which was really the best board for the conditions at the time. After another hour of surfing I was getting hungry and decided to go in a grab a quick sandwich and some water. The wind was just starting to pick up a little and the surf still looked super fun even though the side current was picking up which means lots more paddle is needed to keep from drifting down the beach. After resting up I took out Cliff's 6'2" stinger and that was interesting to say the least. It's a real small board with three fins but rides more like a twin fin (fast and tricky). I got a few really fun waves on that board, but decided to stick with my 6'10" for the rest of the day, because it paddles so easily and that really helped my fight the side current.

Eric Cedeno at Bolsa Chica 8-31-12
Riding Cliff's 6'2" Stinger

After a few more hours my arms were pretty much jello and so I decided to keep the last of my strength for the drive home. I snapped a few more pictures before taking a quick power nap (see below). It was really a family day for everyone, lots of people were learning to surf and it was great to see the stoke on so many faces. After I woke up we loaded up the cars and braved the horrific 405 Freeway traffic back home. 

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno

Bolsa Chica 8-31-12 Photo by Eric Cedeno