No Bad Tides

My goals of surfing are (#1) to have fun, (#2) stand up on each wave, (#3) ride the wave without falling and (#4) ride bigger waves.

I usually decide not to paddle out in surf in the 10 ft (3.048 M) to 15 ft (4.572 M) range or larger. I'd like to get more comfortable in that bigger surf range, but it takes training and practice. I found a cool short video of a group of surfers on the north West coast of USA charging big waves in cold water. Maybe one day I'll be able to ride big waves like these guys (in warmer water).

GoPro Big-Wave Addicts Episode 4

6-9-12 Saturday Ave A / Knob Hill 3-5’ (6’-10’+ faces):

I could tell the tide was still pretty high from the top of the hill at Avenue A overlooking the surf. The surf was breaking a little rolly and a little close to shore. As usual I had my choice of three different boards to pick from in my car. I chose my 9’0” longboard and suited up. I figured my longboard would do well in the rolly high tide surf, plus I could always change boards. There was no one else out in the surf and I tried to pick the best break as I walked down the ramp. I headed between Ave A and knob hill to a consistent right break. The surf was a lot bigger than it looked from on top of the hill and I took my time walking over to the spot that I picked to paddle out. I put my leash on and waited for the sets to pass and then I waited for another cycle of sets to pass.  I made the paddle out look easy and I think I didn’t even get my hair wet as I timed it just right.

The sets were much bigger than it looked from shore, easily 10 foot faces, some bigger. I reminded myself as I sat alone outside that I can swim under or over any big bad wave that might try and crush me. I caught a big set and found the waves were breaking faster than I thought but paddled back out for more. A few more waves and I was feeling pretty good about being out there. A few waves later I decided to change boards and take out my 6’10” mini-log. It was a good change as I could now duck-dive and still take off on the outside sets. I picked off a few good rights and found myself in the right spot for some good lefts. I took off on a macker and felt more like I was in Hawaii than in the South Bay. I made the big drop and flew down the line. Just as I was about to make it to the shoulder my board started to pearl and I quickly over adjusted and my back foot slipped off my board. I skimmed the hard water surface with my body without penetrating to safety while my left foot stuck on my board. The wave finally grabbed me and took me down. It was a relief to be held under without my left leg getting stretched even more in the wrong direction. 

I was in the impact zone and didn’t have much time to whine about my hip socket. After two more waves passed over me I grabbed my board and headed back out to the line-up. I caught a few more waves but was very aware that my hip socket was feeling some soreness and I didn’t want to cause more injury so I got out. I survived the session with only minor discomfort and decided to take it easy for the rest of the weekend. I felt like I had made some progress at getting a little more comfortable in larger surf, it was a good day after all.

I found a video of the morning surf at Torrance beach for 6-9-12... The tide was lower and the surf was a little smaller, but at least it'll give you an idea of how it was earlier in the day.