Saturday, August 11, 2018

Yes, Nicaragua is worth it – Stitches and all

Eric Cedeno Photo by @JERSON_barboza_photo
The whole idea of the trip came out of nowhere really. My wife over heard her coworkers talking about a surf trip to La Barra Surf Resort in Nicaragua about 2 weeks before the planned flight and of course my wife asked if we could go next year. They said you can go on this trip if you can confirm in the next 2 hours. I got the ok from my boss and boom we were set. Shoot, my boss has been to the same place and was giving me advice about the spots and tides (I still think that’s cool).


I heard about the civil unrest in Nicaragua before my trip in early July (2018). I heard of the college students that were killed during protests and wondered how close the violence might be to the surf camp my friends and I were going to stay at. Our group of travel companions was made up of 6 of us (3 guys, 3 girls) with various surfing skill levels. 2 had already made this trip a few times and were hungry for surf. The rest of us were really just following their lead.


I’m pretty much a longboarder at heart and brought 3 boards to cover all the bases: 9’0 longboard, 7’4” gunny hybrid & my 6’4” Lost board. I even bought a new DAKINE coffin travel bag and used some pool noodles & beach towels to pack it all up nice & airport friendly. 

I have to say the DAKINE 9'2" World Traveler - Surfboard Bag ($340)  is awesome! It’s got wheels and out worked great for me. It was a little less bulky and less pricey then the Pro-lite longboard wheeled coffin surfboard bag (2-4 boards $432). Out of our group 4 shortboards got their noses dinged up at the airport going there (2 different board bags)- so pack those areas well… I use swimming pool noodles as extra paddling, and in the pool once we got there! My board bag held up great. We got those fixed right away and moral stayed high for everyone.
Its nice have a photographer on hand. $100 for a week water shots and big telephoto lens for land shots- deal of the century! I’m pretty sure I got the “Bro hook up” price since my friends are already friends with Jerson, but even it was the price was higher it would still be a deal! Check out his Instagram account at @JERSON_barboza_photo.  Hands down the best shots of me surfing I’ve ever seen. Casey had 64 GIG of pictures of him getting barreled (yes that’s a ton of waves) so bring a jump drive or an external disk drive so you can take those epic shots back with you. It’s worth the trip just to get Jerson to take pictures of you in the water!





I’m pretty sure I said “This is my favorite meal” every time we ate breakfast, lunch & dinner (and I meant it too). Every day was tremendous; coffee, surf, breakfast, hammock, boat trip to surf, lunch, pool, surf, power nap with the AC on, and then dinner. Every night was spend telling stories over cold Tona beers and cocktails while Jerson replayed the days photos on the big screen.


Photo by @JERSON_barboza_photo



I lucked out even more because my wife also took pictures of us surfing. I’ll admit that now I really want a bigger lens (for my wife). I’ll have to start a “Go-Lens-Me” fundraiser for it- Something like the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens - I’ll keep you posted!



I was the only one in our group that had a bad enough injury that required stitches and time out of the water. That being said 8 stitches to the back of the head is pretty serious stuff and I’m very thankful that it was not way worse. Here’s what happened. It was my second session of the morning and the tide was dropping out front at chicken bowls. I was riding my 7’4 and just having a blast. 



Eric Cedeno Photo by @JERSON_barboza_photo
Eric Cedeno Photo by @JERSON_barboza_photo
I ended up eating it in the barrel on a small one and maybe two seconds into the wipeout I smacked the back of my head on the shelf. You could probably hear me under water say “Fudge!” (*I’m keeping it PG like the movie “the Christmas story”, but you get the idea). I didn’t blackout and I didn’t see stars. I was just pissed I got hit. As soon as I made it to the surfaces I did a quick wipe to the back of my head and there was a lot of blood- time to go in. My wife was there taking pictures of my and could tell something was up. I took off my white rash guard quickly because I didn’t want it to get all stained with blood, I mean it was new and actually the first time I wore it.  Very comfortable and I highly recommend getting the Rib Rocket for those long epic paddle sessions.


So my wife did her best to stay calm and we headed back to the surf camp for them to look at and it was either liquid stitch it or off the hospital. One of our crew also works as nurse and she got me to ice it right away – that helped slow the bleeding. A few minutes later we decided to make the five minute drive to the hospital and have them take care of it. Now so you know I’ve been to the hospital in Costa Rica (Santa Theresa) and this was by far a first for my wife. She was shocked by the whole thing, the guy selling avocados with his machete in the waiting room, everyone seemed more interested in the world cup of soccer than me bleeding from my head. 



Luis drove us and was our Spanish interpreter. He said we had to agree to pay whatever the final amount was or else they will just let me bleed to death (I guess that’s normal there). We agreed and they took me in the back and stitched me up on a bed while my wife tried not to gag. They said the wound was easy enough to work on without having to shave me. Good thing to because they don’t supply razors at the hospital, you’d have to go down the street to the liquor store and buy a razor if you needed one (we dodged that one).

I thanked the two doctors for patching me up and we went back to the front desk to find out what the bill was going to be… any guesses? $21 USD.  We paid the $21 bucks and headed outside to the pharmacy to pay for the pain meds and antibiotics another $3.50 USD. So if you think you may need stitches in Nicaragua be sure and stash an extra $25 to $40 bucks just in case of a medical emergency. I had a Tona beer on the way back from the hospital and was again grateful that I was going to be ok.




My wife doesn’t surf all that often. She’s still a beginner and needs a week or two at a softer rolly spot- maybe Indonesia. I’ll have to look into that and book a surf trip with that in mind. I was pleasantly surprised when she paddled out with me and the crew just to watch the sunset from the water- she even caught a wave it. No kook of the day action getting out the shore break either- I was impressed (as always). She also made the paddle out for a boat surf trip and I love her for that! Plus that meant I got the extra option of surfing a different board depending on how the waves turned out (I do love having options).


Photo by @JERSON_barboza_photo
The boat trip was easy going, the wind was howling offshore and way too windy for Sandino to really work. We ended up at a heavy beach break where spooky set waves would pop up out of nowhere and steam roll everything in its path. I still had 8 stitches in the back of my head was playing it as smart as I could. 


Photo by @JERSON_barboza_photo
I probably shouldn’t have been out there but I wanted to get a few waves and hopefully a few fun pictures (and I did). I’d get a wave in, wait for the set to pass and then paddle back out, wait for that next spooky set to roll thru then go for another wave. I wished I was more comfortable in larger waves. That spot was paradise and we had the place to ourselves. The photos from there are just magical- the stuff dreams are made of.


I almost don’t want to talk about the drive to the airport at all. It was after all the scariest part of the whole trip – hands down the scariest drive to the airport ever, beats out New York cab drivers and even the cab ride in Rome Italy. We headed to the airport at 2pm for a 5pm flight (1.5 hour drive) and all the roads were blocked and grid locked. Cops with guns everywhere in the city during the rally march. I heard what I hope was firecrackers going off now and them, but they sounded gun shots (hard to tell). After a lot of back tracking, white knuckling it and some nausea we made it to the airport with our flight leaving in 10 minutes! We all had surfboards to check and pulled them all into one transaction which the airlines said we didn’t have to pay for! That was over $600 in boards! (Yes we scored!) We all ran thru security and the rest of the airport and we were the last people on the plane before it departed for El Salvador to our connecting flight.



I was pretty sure our boards didn’t make the plane but there was really nothing anyone could do about that until we got back to the Los Angeles airport. The flight was a little bumpy but we all made it back safe and sound. LA has a nice international airport and if you travel internationally a lot then definitely get Global Entry, it makes coming and going super easy (way shorter lines). I was really happy to see all our boards made the trip back home too (no shortboard dings this time). It was really a great adventure and I highly recommend going if you get the opportunity.

Here's a few more Photos by @JERSON_barboza_photo to dream about:




 

 

 

Travel advice:

Stay at La Barra Surf Resort! Great people- great surf! 

Hows your spanish? Start practicing now. I use the DUO Lingo app on my phone, but there are a bunch of free apps and youtube videos out there to get you started.

Give yourself extra time when you plan to leave, you never know when the next rally or march might pop up. Just stay out of all politics talks. The country is really divided and there is a fight no matter what side you support. Best to stay out of those conversations.

Don't flash your cash, stay minimal and make friends. Definitely bring some mosquito spray and Benadryl. If nothing else you can trade goodies with other surf travelers.

A small first aid kit would also be handy, tweezers, bandaids, etc. A cool thing to do is pack extra clothes, trunks, hats ect and give them away to the local kids. They will love you for that! Best of Luck!

Saturday, June 16, 2018

Nicaragua... Is on my mind...

I think it's time for a new destination. Next stop: Nicaragua

Nicaragua Surf Trip 2017

Published on May 2, 2017
Here's a glimpse into the sick surf, fun times and wipeouts that we experienced at La Barra surf camp in Nicaragua this spring break. Song: Feel it Still by Portugal the man.

La Barra Surf Camp Nicaragua


Published on Jul 10, 2017
Un film de @moanafilmes https://www.instagram.com/moanafilmes/

Igual que lo que hicimos este verano en Nicaragua con La Barra Surf Camp

Surf Tripping in Nicaragua - September 2017


FREEDOMEDIA 


Published on Nov 5, 2017
Every country in Central America is a surfer's dream for adventures and epic waves. The variety of world class surf breaks in Nicaragua are among the best as we scored for two weeks in mid-September 2017. Accommodations provided by http://www.puertosandinosurfresort.com/



Friday, October 20, 2017

The Weirdest and Most Wonderful Waves of 2016



The Weirdest and Most Wonderful Waves of 2016



The Weirdest and Most Wonderful Waves of 2016



Published on Jan 3, 2017
These are the waves that provide a reprieve from tiresome terms like high-performance and progression. We’ve pieced together everything from the dolphin jumping on a WA grom in Kalbarri, Blair Conklin’s work on the Wedge sider, Kai Lenny’s double wave, JOB’s hamster wheel at Pipe, Alex Smith seated at Namibia and more. So go ahead and pour yourself a snifter and watch the best dance moves of the year.

See more at: http://stabmag.com/

Thursday, September 7, 2017

The Dock- Stab Magazine



The Dock

Published on Jul 15, 2017
At four am we were up, towing out what’s now known as "The Dock” in Bali for this concept shoot. We asked ourselves, what does the future look like? A cashless society? Self-driving cars? We’ll leave the wavepools for Kelly Slater and co. Instead, we envisioned lineup where you don’t have to paddle. Which turns out to be a rather dangerous affair.

“The dock’s been scary,” said Ozzie Wright. “At one stage I just came up, got my board and saw it coming right at me. I like the chaos of it. The whole time everybody was like, “Where are we going!? Where are we going!? That was the fun bit. I kept thinking what if the tip was on the beach at a little shorey? No paddling, just run out, jump on a wave surf it to the beach then run back out and jump on another one. That’d be so much fun.”

“It would just kill you if it hit you, yeah?” asked Noa Deane, after the fact. “What’s it weigh? Half a tonne? When it wears a wave on the head it kicks like a snake. Like, Balaram jumped up and went six feet in the air. Then he landed on the wire, so sketchy. It whips right at the end because it’s connected to a cable which adds extra tension.”

Now that the tension’s relieved, we invite you to loosen your belt and enjoy “The Dock” as ridden by Noa, Ozzie, Yago Dora, Mitch Coleborn, Balaram Stack and Imaikalani Devault. After all, what's fun without a little heightened heart rate?

Directed by Sam McIntosh

Edited by Dan Scott

Creative Direction by Shinya Dalby

Produced by Richie Olivares

Oceanic Logistics by Tom Screen.

Executive producer: Brad Dougherty

Cinematography by:

Dan Scott
Jesse Little
Jimmy “Jazz” Kinnaird
Scott Stinnett
Tom Carey

Music (in order of appearance):

The Past Tense by Infinite Bisous

Falling Down Stairs by Distractor.

Surfers (in order of appearance):

Noa Deane
Ozzie Wright
Yago Dora
Imaikalani Devault
Balaram Stack
Mitch Coleborn

Thanks to Alexandre Lamoureux, Philippe Gosselin, Thomas Taatjes, Rizal Tandjung, Made Adi Putra, Betet Merta & Muklis Anwar.




Big thanks to CanDock for making the shoot possible.


Making of 'The Dock'

Published on Jul 27, 2017





The Flying Squirrel | Quincy Symonds



7-Year-Old Phenom 'Flying Squirrel' Takes Surfing World by Storm
Published on Oct 1, 2016
Meet quite possibly the best child surfer in the world, Quincy Symonds. 


The Flying Squirrel | Quincy Symonds | TEDxBrisbane


Published on Oct 17, 2014
This talk was given at a local TEDx event, produced independently of the TED Conferences. Quincy is six years old. She has been surfing and skating since she was four. She is not only one of the best 6 year old surfers & skaters on the planet - she is beautiful kid with a spirit that needs to be seen to be believed.

At six, Quincy Symonds is already tipped as a future Layne Beachley or Stephanie Gilmore. They call her The Flying Squirrel. She may well be the best six-year-old surfer and skater on the planet. Prepare to be gobsmacked.

About TEDx, x = independently organized event In the spirit of ideas worth spreading, TEDx is a program of local, self-organized events that bring people together to share a TED-like experience. At a TEDx event, TEDTalks video and live speakers combine to spark deep discussion and connection in a small group. These local, self-organized events are branded TEDx, where x = independently organized TED event. The TED Conference provides general guidance for the TEDx program, but individual TEDx events are self-organized.* (*Subject to certain rules and regulations)




Friday, May 5, 2017

Some liquid motivation for a today… (long boarding)


Noosaradise Surf Trip - Antoine & Edouard Delpero - Noosa Heads
SurfingXtreme 


Published on Jun 11, 2014
Noosa Heads, it's a place where we decided to go past Winter to enjoy the Australian Summer.. small beautiful waves, a cool atmosphere coming out from a dream, warm salty water... what else to enjoy & surf ?!
I invite you then to discover some nice images as underwater shots, made during this small trip. Featuring Antoine & Edouard Delpero's sessions with friends
Footages :
• Bali Strickland
Production /Edit/ Realisation :
• SVPPLY STUDIO : vimeo.com/svpplystudio

Video project supported by SEN no SEN, CrossCall (phones everywhere) and OXBOW.

Subscribe Here for daily XTreme surfing videos: http://www.youtube.com/subscription_c...

Modern Longboarding Trailer by Alan Robb
Alan Robb 




Published on Jun 18, 2013
Have fun, keep our oceans clean.



South African Longboard Surf Championships | Final Day Highlights


Published on May 7, 2013
XLTV crew stop in and capture the highlights from the final day of the South African Longboard championships - Long Beach, Cape Town RSA. www.XtremeLife.tv

MUSIC CREDITS:
Artist: Howard Fyvie; Song: Africa | Artist: Dizmas Tension; Song: Jealousy Hurts; Label: Forefront Records; Website: http://www.myspace.com/dizmas | Artist: Colour | Song 9


Longboard Expression Session at Pipeline


Uploaded on Jul 6, 2010
Longboard Expression Session at Pipeline before the final of Monster Energy Pro 2005! Best barrels ever seen in a longboard!!


Leah Dawson Might Save Women's Surfing - The Inertia


Published on Nov 10, 2015
Watching Leah Dawson surf is mesmerizing. It's a dance.

“My biggest compliment is not that I surf like a man, but that I surf like a woman,” says Leah. “If someone watches me ride a wave, I want them at the end of it to know that I’m in love with the ocean.”

She smiles a lot, so that helps. But her movements are unique. And in getting to know her, whether overtly or not, it’s easy to decipher she has more ambitious plans that are naturally unfolding. Through her own resources and energy, she’s quickly becoming a modern ambassador for women’s surfing.

“It makes my heart sing when I see other women out celebrating in the water and just playing and rejoicing,” says Dawson. “They’re not trying to do tricks, and they’re not trying to become number one in the world. They’re just going out for their daily medicine…As a lover of the sport I want to see women feeling more empowered to surf like a woman.”

Dawson is also a storyteller. She makes compelling short films like Peanut Butter, a story about her relationship with a yellowed single fin that a lot of people might have thrown away. And she has a strong opinion about the representation of women in surfing. It’s not about sex. It’s not about performance in the water. For Leah, it’s about soul – another word so thoroughly bastardized from overuse that it’s sometimes hard to recognize when we see it. In Leah, it’s boiling. And she’s not militant or overzealous about how she’s profoundly adjusting the narrative in championing women’s surfing.

She’s just her. And that might be exactly what surfing needs.

The Inertia: Surfing's Definitive Community // http://www.theinertia.com