Sometimes I surf with my back to the world

 “Sometimes I surf with my back to the world.” @nobadtides

I’ve been going through some really heavy life events. I have a torn knee injury that put a major halt to my surfing (and overall well being) since may 2021, that and other stuff that I don’t want to talk about. It’s been really rough for me the last few years.

One of the best things that has happened for me is the surge in friends reaching out, reconnecting and most recently getting me back in the water with a mobilizing knee brace over my wetsuit.

My buddy drove up from San Diego the other day and I tested out surfing with a knee brace on and it worked really well (or better than I thought).

Then today the planets realigned and I got to surf with my surf photographer friends and that has a way of lifting my stoke factor (my happiness). Thank you all that have added value to my life (please keep doing that).

❤️🙏❤️

📷 by @threedoginit

I think I met @threedoginit back in January 2016 (I think)... I found this shot of me below that he took back then (January 2016)... An oldie but goodie....