Big wave surfer Paige Alms from Maui; screen grab from video
There has always been an underground element to the world of big-wave riding. For the most part, those who put their lives on the line at waves like Jaws, Mavericks, and Waimea Bay, to name a few, aren’t doing it for a paycheck or to make the pages of surf magazines; they truly have a passion for riding mountain-sized waves. One such surfer is 26-year-old Maui, Hawaii, resident Paige Alms. Surfing alongside Maui chargers like Albee Layer and Matt Meola, big-wave surfer Alms can hold her own—and then some—with the world’s best when thunderous swells hit the North Shore of Maui, particularly the legendary spot known as Peahi (aka Jaws).
How did you get into surfing big waves?
My first real big-wave experience was when I was 15. My mentor, Chris Vandervoort, took me out to an outer reef here on Maui called Pier 1. I was on a 9-foot board, caught a few memorable waves, got pounded, and was hooked.
My first real big-wave experience was when I was 15. My mentor, Chris Vandervoort, took me out to an outer reef here on Maui called Pier 1. I was on a 9-foot board, caught a few memorable waves, got pounded, and was hooked.
What was your first session out at Jaws like?
My first paddle session out at Peahi [Jaws] was a memorable one for sure. We’d been towing it for years, so it wasn’t completely new, but going in and out over the huge boulders was definitely different. Matt Meola and Albee Layer both called me and my boyfriend, Sean Ordonez, who shapes all of Matt’s boards and all of Albee’s big-wave guns, and told us it was 15 feet and light wind—a perfect day to come out! I caught three waves that day, then broke my leash and lost my board. Albee had just broken his board and the both of us were swimming in the lineup. Luckily a Jet Ski had just shown up, and [he] gave us a ride into the rocks. Ten minutes later, as we watched from shore, our friend Yuri took a late drop, got hit in the face with his board, broke his jaw, and his board washed ashore. That day I decided for myself that at least one ski has to be in the water if we are paddling.
My first paddle session out at Peahi [Jaws] was a memorable one for sure. We’d been towing it for years, so it wasn’t completely new, but going in and out over the huge boulders was definitely different. Matt Meola and Albee Layer both called me and my boyfriend, Sean Ordonez, who shapes all of Matt’s boards and all of Albee’s big-wave guns, and told us it was 15 feet and light wind—a perfect day to come out! I caught three waves that day, then broke my leash and lost my board. Albee had just broken his board and the both of us were swimming in the lineup. Luckily a Jet Ski had just shown up, and [he] gave us a ride into the rocks. Ten minutes later, as we watched from shore, our friend Yuri took a late drop, got hit in the face with his board, broke his jaw, and his board washed ashore. That day I decided for myself that at least one ski has to be in the water if we are paddling.
How do the guys treat you in the lineup?
Most of the guys are super supportive and friendly, but some of the ones I’ve never met just paddle by and don’t even say hello. I just laugh.
Have you had any negative experiences with guys out there?
I’ve never really had any negative experiences with any of the guys, except when Robby Naish accidentally burned me and I had to jump off in the pit and got my board to my face. Haha! SUPers … It’s all good, though.
I’ve never really had any negative experiences with any of the guys, except when Robby Naish accidentally burned me and I had to jump off in the pit and got my board to my face. Haha! SUPers … It’s all good, though.
How do you conquer the fear associated with surfing big waves?
I guess fear is the main thing besides Mother Nature that you deal with when surfing big waves. It is something that limits you if you can’t work through it, and I find that mental challenge to be one of the most rewarding feelings when you get past that wall. I guess it’s mind over matter and just having the confidence in your body and knowing what you can handle.
I guess fear is the main thing besides Mother Nature that you deal with when surfing big waves. It is something that limits you if you can’t work through it, and I find that mental challenge to be one of the most rewarding feelings when you get past that wall. I guess it’s mind over matter and just having the confidence in your body and knowing what you can handle.
Maui big-wave surfer Paige Alms makes her way over the treacherous boulders that line the shore at Jaws; screen grab from video
Tell us about your worst wipeout out there.
Worst wipeout … I’ve had a few good ones and they all tend to lead to whiplash. I caught a bomb in October of 2012 where I hit a chop at the bottom of the wave and went down; that was probably the worst just because of the size of the wave and where I was. I was sore for a few days after that for sure.
Worst wipeout … I’ve had a few good ones and they all tend to lead to whiplash. I caught a bomb in October of 2012 where I hit a chop at the bottom of the wave and went down; that was probably the worst just because of the size of the wave and where I was. I was sore for a few days after that for sure.
What’s next for the ladies who ride mountains? Where do you see the sport going from a woman’s perspective?
I guess what’s next is just continuing to push the limits. I think we will be catching bigger, better waves every session we have—and hopefully have women’s heats at the Big Wave World Tour events.
I guess what’s next is just continuing to push the limits. I think we will be catching bigger, better waves every session we have—and hopefully have women’s heats at the Big Wave World Tour events.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.