I was lucky to hear about this swell on Monday from Skip at work.. and even luckier to get Tuesday (yesterday) off work on short notice (approved vacation)… and surfed O’fre with my other friend Skip. I know you are thinking "how many people named Skip does this guy know": The answer is 2. There's one at Work that I met about a year ago and also a totally different guy that I've know from the last 15 years- weird but true.
Tuesday 8-7-12 Ofre 3-5+ and so good:
It was overcast when I arrived at 6:30 am and after I finished my morning cup of coffee I figured I would wear my spring suit (long legs with short sleeves) for the fist session. The water was real nice, not cold, not hot, it was just right.
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San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno
$195 for an annual pass... Ouch! |
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
The fog burned off in the late morning and turned into a nice sunny day with very little wind. The surf would pump in shoulder high on the smaller waves and overhead on the bigger sets, then go flat for 20 minutes or so and then turn back on and pump again.
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
The outside sets were rolly and were harder to catch, you really had to sit in the “A” frame pit and take off just before the wave broke on you which can take little getting used to. You could easily ride a head high wave for about 100 yards, but sometimes you’d have to dodge a herd of people paddling out.
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
I decided to take my Canon G10 with a waterproof housing out just to see how it felt. I should've paddled out with a boogie board of just fins but I paddled out on my longboard with the camera just balancing on the nose of my board. Even with the flotation strap on I wasn't feeling very good about it. I sat in the channel between Old mans and the first point (north of old mans) and took a few pictures. I think next time I'll bring my GoPro with the wrist strap and see how that works out.
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San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno
Surfer: Skip (John Jones) |
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San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno
An average set
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
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San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno
There's one of those sneaker sets coming to steam roll everyone.. |
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San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno
I looks more like Hawaii than Southern California |
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
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San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno
Just an average wave that is 50 feet thick |
I put in about 8 hours of surfing for the day with a few breaks to re-hydrate and snack. I finally had to call it a day after my arms and legs started cramping up and I had no more strength to keep paddling. Totally worth it. I took this picture just before I left. This was an average wave breaking on the middle to inside section at the first point (north of old mans).
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| San Onofre 8-7-12 Photo by Eric J Cedeno |
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