40's

I couldn't resist. I've been surfing this spot since I was 15. It really hasn't changed much since the 1940's, except for the crowd...

70 style points

I'm pretty sure the vibe was cool back in the 1970's. Except of course unless you had been drafted and had to go to Nam.

Back in 78

I was born in 1978. Surfing was still progressing and the world was a very different place, some things better, somethings much worse. It sure would've been cool to be hanging around these places back then. Hopefully I haven't missed out too much. I guess I just have to make the best of it.

Drying out...

I haven't surfed since February and I'm feeling like a fish out of water... I figured I'd look for some fun inspiration. I found a cool old clip from the 60's of some big surf back here in California. 

Check it out-

a shorter longboard

Lately I’ve been inspired by Chris Wach and his canvas surfboards. I haven’t met him yet but he seems like cool kid from what I’ve read about him. I like the longboard style boards of all sizes that he’s been playing on. This past weekend I traded in my 6’10” Wayne Lynch gunny shortboard for a custom 6’10” longboard. I can only call it a longboard by the thickness and shape (17” nose 14” squash tail about 21.5” wide, tri-fin). I guess you could call it a shorter longboard. It should be done around 3-14-12 (ordered on 3-3-12). I’m looking forward to giving it a test drive real soon. Plus it’ll give me more surface area to draw on….

I think my new board will look something like this:

Surfer: Harrison Roach photo by Keith Novosel from the Noosa Festival march 2010