I honestly don't know what drives others to surf the waves that could kill them, but I do know that I respect and idolize most them. Big surf is just a relative term that is used in the same way that the word "Spicy" is used. Something might be considered spicy to one person and mild to another (big surf to someone, small surf to another). To me big surf is a few feet over head or bigger, in the 8 to 16 foot face range. I have a pretty large range because it really depends on the surf break. Most of the surf breaks in my area (the South Bay/ Southern California) are powerful beach breaks with shifty peaks and lack channels for safe paddle outs. I'm sure if I can conquer my fear of getting caught inside on a huge 15 foot + wave then I'll be well on my way to becoming a good big wave rider. Until then I will continue to study the different big wave surf spots about the globe, remaining calm in large surf and work on holding my breath underwater.
I'm really amazed and inspired by people that push the limits of surfing giant waves like Garrett. Check out this epic wave:
houndofthesea1111 Uploaded on Nov 11, 2011
This is a pretty good representation of most of the worlds big waves surf spots- Check it out:
Thessa Torsing Uploaded on Oct 27, 2010
I think Cortez Banks will be the next place that will break the record for largest wave ever surfed. Check out these videos of the place in action and learn more about how the break really works. Check it out:
ChronicleBooks Uploaded on Sep 6, 2011
surfer Uploaded on Jan 22, 2010
GhostWaveBook Uploaded on Oct 24, 2011
surfline Uploaded on Mar 15, 2010
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| Mark Healey dodges one of the bigger set waves of the day out at Cortes Bank (Quirarte) Read all about it at: Big waves and a near miss By Frank Quirarte Published: December 24, 2012 |
The whole story
This is a pretty good representation of most of the worlds big waves surf spots- Check it out:
14. El Buey, Chile
13. Playa Gris, Spain
12. Outer Reef, Australia
11. Teahupoo, Tahiti
10. Belharra, France
9. Ghost Trees, California
8. Punta Lobos, Chile
7. Waimea Bay, Hawaï
6. Dungeons, South Africa
5. Puerto Escondido, Mexico
4. Cortes Bank
3. Mavericks, California
2. Todos Santos, Mexico
1. Jaws, Hawaï
13. Playa Gris, Spain
12. Outer Reef, Australia
11. Teahupoo, Tahiti
10. Belharra, France
9. Ghost Trees, California
8. Punta Lobos, Chile
7. Waimea Bay, Hawaï
6. Dungeons, South Africa
5. Puerto Escondido, Mexico
4. Cortes Bank
3. Mavericks, California
2. Todos Santos, Mexico
1. Jaws, Hawaï
I think Cortez Banks will be the next place that will break the record for largest wave ever surfed. Check out these videos of the place in action and learn more about how the break really works. Check it out:
Pre-order now: http://www.chroniclebooks.com/ghost-wave.html
Rising from the depths of the North Pacific lies a fabled island, now submerged just 15 feet below the surface of the ocean. Rumors and warnings about Cortes Bank abound, but among big wave surfers, this legendary rock is famous for one simple (and massive) reason: this is the home of the biggest rideable wave on the face of the earth. In this dramatic work of narrative non-fiction, journalist Chris Dixon unlocks the secrets of Cortes Bank and pulls readers into the harrowing world of big wave surfing and high seas adventure above the most enigmatic and dangerous rock in the sea. The true story of this Everest of the sea will thrill anyone with an abiding curiosity of—and respect for—mother ocean.
Chris Dixon's work has appeared in the New York Times, the New York Times Magazine, Outside, Men's Journal, Surfer, and Surfer's Journal. He lives in Charleston, South Carolina.
Rising from the depths of the North Pacific lies a fabled island, now submerged just 15 feet below the surface of the ocean. Rumors and warnings about Cortes Bank abound, but among big wave surfers, this legendary rock is famous for one simple (and massive) reason: this is the home of the biggest rideable wave on the face of the earth. In this dramatic work of narrative non-fiction, journalist Chris Dixon unlocks the secrets of Cortes Bank and pulls readers into the harrowing world of big wave surfing and high seas adventure above the most enigmatic and dangerous rock in the sea. The true story of this Everest of the sea will thrill anyone with an abiding curiosity of—and respect for—mother ocean.
Chris Dixon's work has appeared in the New York Times, the New York Times Magazine, Outside, Men's Journal, Surfer, and Surfer's Journal. He lives in Charleston, South Carolina.
Kelly Slater, Greg Long, Grant "Twiggy" Baker and an intrepid crew complete the first documented paddle session at the famed Cortes Bank.
January, 2001. The first time Cortes Bank is successfully surfed at a giant size. Nobody knew what the heck they were getting themselves into. Mike Parsons first wave was the first of his two world records out here. Video by Fran Battaglia, Courtesy of Surfline.com, from the film "Making the Call." Surfers: Mike Parsons, Brad Gerlach, Ken "Skindog" Collins, Peter Mel, Evan Slater and John Walla. This mission is described in hair raising detail in the book "Ghost Wave - The Discovery of Cortes Bank and the Biggest Wave on Earth." by Chris Dixon
What makes this North Pacific big wave tow-surf spot tick. Watch more surf videos like this @ http://www.surfline.com/video
Way.... To big!!!!!! You be careful out there!!!!!
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