During my last surf trip I must’ve watched “Momentum Generation”
on my iPad about 10 times in just three days. This movie hits everything and
dives deep into what happened in those early years all the way up to present
times. These guys were and still are my heroes. Used to watch Momentum 2 every
day in the mid-90’s. The crew reminded me of my high school friends and how we
pushed each other to higher levels of surfing. I had some really talented
friends. Some were lost to drug overdoses, others were just separated by
physical distance or time, family, life distractions.
The Momentum
Generation crew reminds me so much of my friends that I get both happy and
sad all at once when I watch that movie. Kelly Slater reminders me of Bandon. Bandon was by far the most talented one in the group. He could do
anything, bust airs when that was new, bomb huge hills on roller blades or a
skateboard, skydive, DJ, whatever it was he was instantly good at it. But he
had a dark side that made it really hard for me to be around him unless he was in
the water surfing.
Shane Dorian reminders me of Stephan, Steph is by far
the best big wave rider I’ve ever known. Even back in highschool he could hold
his breath underwater for over 3 minutes. He would paddle out and charge double
or triple overhead surf and just make it look fun and easy. I remember him
swimming out to the end of Hermosa pier on a huge day that was too big to
paddle out and I threw is board off the pier to him and he caught a massive
left.
Benji Weatherly reminds me of Dustin. Dust had that
personality that everyone gravitated towards. Everyone loved him. He always
dated the hottest girls and was pretty much fearless in and out of the water.
He always stuck up for me and I don’t think I would’ve survived highschool
without his friendship and support. Much like Kelly Slater and Rob Machado our
friendship was strained and I wish we both were better friends to each other.
Maybe it’s not too late to change.
Ross Williams reminds me of Shaun Bishop- oh for sure!
As for me, I think I most connect with Rob Machado. Not only
because we both were skinny and had the fro in high school (although that
pretty much sums it up). But also because I see Rob as more of a soul surfer
and he just rides to feel good and that’s what I really enjoy about being in
the water. I pretty much have fun in almost any surf condition, any board,
except when the surf gets too big for my comfort level (and that is something
that I’m trying to work on expanding).
I remember the guys making a few “Quick Release”
surf/skate/BXM/ Skydiving videos that ran on our local public access. I think
it would be cool for the crew to have a reunion. To set aside whatever
friendship conflicts that have come up and just make time get together like old
times.
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