Friday 3-1-13
I was off to a slow start. I
guess you could say I was on “Island Time” or vacation mode for some reason
that I can’t explain. I checked the surf online and it seemed to say things would be small and would only get smaller as the day went on.
It was a nice warm sunny morning and I did a few things
around the house before loading up my car with a few boards (9’0 longboard, 7’ Dewey
Weber feather fastback, 6’10” mini log, 6’4” New Lost board). I even made some
fresh juice to take with me for the drive to the beach because I'm still eating and drinking more of the healthier stuff when I can.
I pulled into the little
parking lot that had a bunch of open spots and saw a few other surfers coming
and going. I put a quarter in the meter and watch the electronic parking meter
gauge turn from red to green and display 15 minutes. I took off my sweat shirt
and stood on the little wall that separated the sidewalk from the dirt and
succulent ivy on the slopes that covered the side of the hill down to the beach strand.
There were a few guys out
next to the drain. The ocean surface was calm and rolly, there was hardly any
wind and a few pelicans taking turns dive bombing fish. A few smaller seals were out surfing too. A clean set rolled
up north of the drain and a seal caught it as the wave pitched out and spit.
Most of the waves barreled up, some looked makeable and others just looked like
fun.
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| 3-1-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno |
I suited up and pulled my
9’0” out of my car. I figured with the rising tide thing might slow down more
and a longboard would just make it all easier. Around 9:30 am I loaded up the
parking meter with a big handful of quarters that gave me three hours of
freedom. Another surfer must’ve seen the same wave I saw and was also heading
over to the north side of the drain. I quickly paddled out and was glad the sun
was out, because the water was still pretty chilly. The surf ranged from knee
high to over head. I was really surprised that there weren’t more people out
and took full advantage of it all. I caught a bunch of quick tube rides, some
on the nose where I’d come out all speedy and hit a little floater. I had a
blast. It would’ve been cooler to have a photographer there to shoot the
action, but well I’ll take what I can get. For the most part there were only
one or two other guys out near me at any one time and I was in the groove.
Sometimes I’d catch two waves out of a three wave set! It just felt good to get
wet and finally relax for a bit. The wind starting picking up a little around noon and I
got out about a half hour later.
Saturday 3-2-13
I went right back to Burnout around 9:00 am but no dice. The size
was there, but the shape wasn’t.
You should’ve been here yesterday … (Like I was)
