Was this the best day of the Year? (Probably...)

Photo By @Wood_Brain

I've only surfed four times this year so far.  There are a few easy explanations for that like torn knee and even with a knee brace it's still not been the same since I was in a bad car accident last December. The constant discomfort makes doing things a lot harder. Luckily Lindsay is very supportive and has been pulling me back into surfing more often, even a short surf session is better than nothing at all. 

Photo By @Wood_Brain

On Saturday I had a few MRI's done on my neck and back and while I was trapped in that little plastic tube listening to loud banging of the machine and I thought about surfing. I missed the salty air, the occasional dolphin encounters and my friends smiles that I would always see when we were in the water together sharing waves.  So I made up my mind to go out and catch a few waves for the first time in April. Actually I've only been able to surf once a month this year since the accident and it's been my wife Lindsay that has always pulled me back into the ocean and happiness.

Photo By @Wood_Brain

I woke up early as if was Christmas morning, made some coffee and loaded up my car with three boards, the 9'0, the 8'0 Lopez and my 6'10 mini log.  Soon after Lindsay was up, camera ready and we hit the road. We got good parking and I did a quick surf check from up top. It was super clean, offshore, and the tide was just getting better and better. Stoked! I suited up grabbed my 8'0 Gerry Lopez Pocket Rocket and headed down to the water. 

Photo By @Wood_Brain

It was pretty much a perfect day. Light offshore, sunny, water was a cold 59 degrees, but it wasn't that crowded yet. Waves were clean and had great shape. There was a little wait between waves but that was ok, it made the paddle out a little easier and I liked that because with my bad knee it's really hard for me to duck-dive even with a knee brace on.  LZ was stoked to see so many dolphins playing so close to shore. Got a few photos of me pulling into the barrel, didn't make most of them but that's ok. 

Photo By @Wood_Brain

I kept paddling north to get away from the crowd. Eventually I ended up near the next tower and @Gnarf (Tyler) showed up stoked from his recent trip to Mexico. We shared the waves together and LZ got of a few shots of him too. All in all it was just one of the great days that don’t happen all too often... totally worth it.

Photo By @Wood_Brain