The Wedge is going off and pumping in November from a rare late season south swell! Clean glassy peaks came through with Tyler Stanaland, Dawson Sherman, Blair Conklin, Robbie "Yogatron" Crawford, Tim Burnham, Tyler Gunter, Addy Giddings, Brad Domke and more scoring a rare treat! Special beach Yoga bonus by @RobbieCrawford !
Perfect Moroccan Point Break on a Mid Length | POV Raw Surf Session
Whilst doing some reconnaissance work in Morocco for future surf retreats, I've been checking out the local waves (and recording some of the R&D). I've enjoyed riding my longer surfboard options; this particular shape a collaborative prototype i'm working on with Album for release asap.
Today I broke my collarbone. It's been almost 8 years since I destroyed my knee. Since that day my life has changed drastically. I went from spending a lot of my time at bars, parties & asleep at my spiritual wheel to being completely awake & in tune with the world around me. I never saw this coming. I went for a casual surf this morning & never, ever thought that I would end up with a shattered collarbone. I'm surprised, I'm baffled, I'm disappointed & I'm confused. The one aspect of joy I allowed myself so far in this process is the broken collarbone counter, I did get a kick out of that. I'm not sure what to do or say from here, but please just wish me luck. Thank you - Ben
Surfing alone in The Maldives sounds like bait, but I ended up surfing so many sessions here with so few people that I just couldn't believe it! Reflecting on our retreats here, it was truly a magical experience and I can't wait to bring more students back with me next time (if there are any spots left seeing as everybody who came already wants to come back!).
Here are 4 Lessons from Kale Brock that will help move from beginner to an advanced surfer. Check these out and let me know which one helps you the most. Check it out:
HOW TO CATCH MORE WAVES IN CROWDED SURF (without annoying anybody)
Crowded surf spots are becoming more and more common in this 'stay at home' work environment; surfers are less bound by the clock and less bound by location.
In this video I chat through, using some clear examples, strategies you can apply to increase your wave count (without annoying anybody!) amongst a crowded line up.
These intermediate surfing mistakes will are having a big impact on how you surf and how fast you're progressing.
These 7 mistakes form a large chunk of what I talk about with my surf coaching clients and I can certainly explore them more in-depth in individual videos - let me know down below which one you'd like me to look at more!
Surfing progression tends to happen in stages. You improve your surfing in bursts followed by plateaus which is typical of an extreme sport without a repetitive playing environment.
In this video we track one of my coaching clients 3 month's progress from advanced beginner to intermediate. I'm super pumped with her progress!
How to surf; the top 7 beginner surfing mistakes that I see are most easily fixed with a few technique adjustments. These small adjustments will lead to you catching more waves, progressing faster &, most importantly, having more fun in the surf!
Many seasoned surfers have a shark story, I have many. A few years back there was a very sharky summer in southern California and I remember being less than three feet away from a great white shark that I could see 9 out of 13 surf sessions (some of them were pretty big too). There was even a surfer next to me that got bumped, that was pretty scary.
The scariest shark encounter I had was went I was in Costa Rica and I paddled a quarter mile out to check out an outer reef break and I was completely alone. The tide was a bit too low to ride the wave that broke over a reef shelf. A huge shark maybe 13 feet emerged from the deep and was heading slowly, and I felt deliberately, at me. I turned my eight foot surfboard around and began the paddle towards shore. I executed smooth powerful strokes, my feet pulled upwards keeping my board streamlined, while my head swiveled left and right looking for a possible attack. I made the quarter mile paddle back to shore quickly, and safely, it was nerve racking.
Here are few stories of shark encounters and some things to keep in mind when you visit the ocean. Check these out:
Mick Fanning opens up about shark attack | 60 Minutes Australia
There has never been a sporting moment like it. Australian surfing legend Mick Fanning attacked by a great white shark during a surfing contest, all captured on live television. For an agonising 9 seconds Mick disappeared from view and the world held its breath to see who or what would emerge from this life and death struggle. Since he's returned home, Mick Fanning has been reflecting on his great escape, and tells 60 Minutes about his deepest thoughts and the nightmares that still haunt him
Wayne Lynch is one of the greatest surfers of our time. An innovator in the water and in the shaping bay he has thrilled generations of surfers with his surfing and passion for the ocean. In this rare interview Wayne shares his famous shark story. A great Australian surf tale recorded for our museum Oral History Program.
You can find out more about Wayne Lynch at the new 20 20 Exhibition which opened at the Surfworld Museum Torquay in December 2013.
How To Avoid Shark Attacks Whilst Surfing | Ocean Guardian Review
Sharks and surfing; it's an endless, unavoidable duo which we must deal with when we decide to play in the ocean, but is there a way to protect both creatures (people and sharks) without avoiding the water entirely?
I was contacted by Ocean Guardian, a company who offer shark deterrent devices using Shark Shield Technology (super interesting science behind this). They wanted to know whether or not their devices impacted one's performance on a surfboard so I happily strapped on my lab coat over in Western Australia to run the test.
Check out Ocean Guardian here https://ocean-guardian.com
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Best Great White Shark Drone Footage of 2021 (Narrated)
This is my annual collection of my favorite great white shark moments I filmed with my drone over the course of this year. A two part installment this year, this part focuses on human-shark encounters and shark-sting ray encounters. All captured from above in 4K.
DISCLAIMER:
I'm NOT a marine biologist or naturalist. As with all YouTube content, I encourage independent verification of facts via official scientific and trustworthy sources. I will strive to post citations for any information I discuss here whenever possible. My goal is to use photography and drones to bring awareness to wildlife and the nature around us. I welcome collaborations with scientists to bring cinematic elements to the educational presentation.
