The 10,000 Year Storm Waves

 

It probably took 100 years to get a few surfers to become scientist and share how set waves are formed... It's something all surfers have awareness of and regular non-surfing scientist just didn't know about.  Check this out: 

This Wave Happens Once in 10 000 years. Scientists Have Finally Captured it

Ridddle

Until the late nineteenth century, approximately one ship was mysteriously lost at sea each and every day. Back then, pirates, mythical krakens, or even Poseidon could be blamed for ships' disappearance. With the development of shipping and the introduction of new technologies, that number has decreased, but even up to twenty oh five, at least two ships per week continued to suffer sudden wrecks, taking many lives to the bottom of the ocean. Who or what is responsible for those crimes? It all comes down to killers. Namely, killer waves. To this day, scientists have no idea how to anticipate them, much less how to escape them. In this video, you’ll get wind of: how do waves play life-or-death chess with ships? Why do thirty-meter breakers exist contrary to the mathematicians’ calculations? And above all, what’s the secret of the killer wave’s perfect crimes?