Thursday, January 30, 2014

This Video Shot With A Drone And A GoPro May Be The Most Incredible Surf Video Yet (viabusinessinsider.com.au by PAUL SZOLDRA)

The “Pipeline” on Hawaii’s North Shore is world renowned for its incredibly large and often dangerous waves, and a new video from aerial photographer Eric Sterman shows the area in all its glory.

Sterman attached a GoPro camera to a DJI quadcopter to capture this awesome footage of surfers on the pipe, according to The Next Web.
From The Next Web:
The result is a truly breathtaking video from a perspective which used to be impossible for filmmakers to achieve without hiring a helicopter. I’ve watched a few surfing films before (Billabong Odyssey and The Endless Summer are my personal favourites) but this is by far the best footage I’ve ever seen from Pipeline.
Check it out:

Thursday, January 16, 2014

Compassing // a film by cyrus sutton x reef


Reefentertainment Reefentertainment



Published on Sep 3, 2013
No one knows Just Passing Through like Cyrus Sutton. And in the latest chapter of Cy's adventures, he's customized his van for experiencing life on the road. Through cutting, sanding, welding, and staining, he's transformed his old van into a unique camper that's been helping him traverse the Western side of North America to seek out good waves and good people. Reef is proud to partner with Cy on his new project, "Compassing," a film chronicling his recent van travels.
To download the film free head to: http://bit.ly/Compassing

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Lost 5'5 x 19 1/4 Redux SURF MOVIE


Alessandro Quarto Alessandro Quarto·



Published on Jul 12, 2013
The movie stars Chris Ward, Aaron Cormican and Mason Ho putting sub 5'6 boards to their limits. Also sections from Dane Reynolds, Jordy Smith, Kolohe Andino, Luke Davis, Ryan Carlson and Ol' Mr. Sl9er himself. ...And for the first time ever seen, Cory Lopez and Ian Walsh weaving through some of the longest tubes ever captured on video at what Surfer Magazine dubbed "The Holy Grail of Surf Scores".

Saturday, January 11, 2014

A PADDLE SESSION AT BELHARRA (Via STABmag)


Jamie_Mitch

You know Belharra, right? That big wave magnet near Jean de Luz in the French Basque Country? Well, a storm named Hercules hit it overnight. Shane Dorian, Jamie Mitchell, Benjamin Sanchis, Twiggy Baker, Justine Dupont, Greg Long, Anthony Walsh, Peyo Lizarazu and plenty more came in wild for kicks. Peyo whipped some of the morning’s best waves, but it quickly became a paddle-only session as the tide dropped (Belharra favours the lower tide).
Quiksilver France guru Nic Dazet was in a boat in the channel. Stab spoke with him while still in the boat, during which Nic interrupted himself frequently to whoop in real time as the team in the lineup scratched or whipped into bombs. He also told us more about the session after it’d wrapped. “Peyo Lizarazu whipped into the best tow wave of the day, but then it turned into a paddle-only session,” Nic says. “(Shane) Dorian got the sickest one paddling, a left. It wasn’t the biggest, he just timed it perfectly. Benjamin Sanchis went right on the same one and fell. Jamie Mitchell did the sickest air drop on the biggest one of the day, easy 30 feet, but then ate shit.”
As an aside, Twiggy Baker and Jamie almost didn’t make it out there this morning. They rolled down to the water at pitch black to find their ski underwater. Luckily it worked out and they made it to the lineup in time for Jamie to almost make said air drop and allow us the pleasure of the photo you’ll see above.
While eating a cepes omelette at them Hendaye harbour after the session, Shane and Benny discussed Jamie’s wave:
Benny: What size you think Jamie’s wave was?
Shane: It’s hard to tell, but that wave was over 60 feet for sure. It wasn’t the biggest wave I’ve seen today, but it was a really good one. Even for towing, it was a big wave.
Benny: Yeah, that wave had more wall than most of the sets today. You saw how hard it is to be in the right spot to catch the wave? Sometimes you have the feeling you’re at the right spot but if you end up a bit on the shoulder you miss it.
Shane: You don’t want to be behind either, you really need to be on the top. The wave is so fast that if you were anywhere but the peak you can’t catch it. I wish I got to have get more tries.
Benny: Too bad it wasn’t breaking yesterday, we could have had two sessions in one swell.
Shane: It’s a great spot to paddle, you can definitely catch some huge waves there…
“This was the first real paddle session here,” says Nic. “A lot of broken boards. But then the wind come on strong and the sets died off. It was still decent Belharra.”
Even if a little underwhelming. But, how could it not be in an age of ultrahype because the internet?

STAB Magazine... The Missing Link

I really do enjoy hacking around the internet searching for something new about surfing. It's funny you can look and look and sometimes it seems like all the same stuff just keeps coming up. Well, I found another gold mine and I want to share it with you, Stab Magazine. I added them to my list on links off to the right.  Check out what they say about themselves...

ABOUT STAB


Kolohe Andino, on location in Tenerife for Stab's studio shoot (surfing's first), in which we highlighted the nuances of every grab variation. Photo: Sergio Villalba


HEY THERE, HONEY. WE GOT SOMETHING TO SAY.

It’s 2012.
Surfing ain’t long-hairs and doobie-suckers no more. Surfing is suited-and-booted stockbrokers. It’s university students who’ve smelt the roses and don’t swallow the evening news. It’s just-18-year-olds whose trunks end above the knee, who like socks that pop and who don’t mind clamping the top button. Surfing is beavertails and logs and empowered women who ain’t adverse to a Brazilian cut, but it’s also finner-270s and bigspins. Right now, surfing is goddamn hot and, most of all, inspired.
And Stab is inspired by it.
By the progression.
Stab celebrates the champagne end of the spectrum. Y’got a 720 in your sights? You’re our man. We’ll even gift you cash to make it happen. Y’trading up flat-spins for their inverted cousin? Take page one. Whether it’s hiring a chopper and shooting Taj Burrow from the Angle of God (issue one), or throwing a blindfolded Bruce Irons over the ledge at Chopes (issue 56), Stab‘s driven by the search for an answer to the question: How sumptuous can surfing be?
By the sexiness.
Women’s surfing ain’t what it was and, in recent years, we’ve grown fond of portraying exquisite surfer gals as seen through our lonesome eyes. Water droplets on Mon Byrne-Wickey’s stunning V’s. Sage Erickson lounging in a Hawaiian crib. Sal Fitz, shining brighter than the sun in a pool of salt water. Stab feels that women’s surfing, electric and aggressive as it’s ever been, is also sexier than it’s ever been.
By the intelligence.
Spicoli is dead; Taj Burrow’s vocab is swollen. Kelly Slater digs on organics. Julian Wilson ain’t scared of collared shirting. Sophistication’s on the come-up, ‘specially among the pups. Just ask Kolohe Andino, who you certainly won’t find saying “It was a good heat,” no matter how dazzling the last 30 mins of his life were. Stab loves this flavour of professional surfing and it forms the basis of everything we stand for.
Ok, ok, but, in short, what’s this whole show about?
Big ideas and the endeavour to execute ‘em. Sometimes they don’t come off, but it’s better than wondering. Stab may be put together by a bunch of narcissistic and morally corrupt humans, but goddamn it, if we ain’t the most obsessive collective y’ever did see…
…while you were sleeping, our eyes stayed open.

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Take Care of Your Wetsuit: A how-to for wetsuit maintenance, because rinsing alone just isn't enough (Via surfermag.com)


Photo: Burkard
Taking care of your neoprene should always be a priority, 
especially if you somehow find yourself in Iceland. Photo: Burkard

By Justin Housman posted on November 21, 2013

Taking care of your neoprene should always be a priority, especially if you somehow find yourself in Iceland. Photo: Burkard

Wetsuits are so cool. We get to put on a superhero costume every time we paddle out at coldwater spots. Yes, surfing in boardshorts is undeniably better, but breaking in a new pair of boardies is nowhere near as satisfying as pulling on some soft, fresh rubber. At $400 a pop or more, good wetsuits are annoyingly expensive but worth every cent. Keep that new suit new for as long as possible by sacrificing a few minutes of your post-surf burrito time for some crucial wetsuit care. Proper, meticulous, obsessively over-the-top maintenance will not only prolong the useful life of your suit, it keeps it looking and feeling fresh a whole lot longer. Here’s a must-do list:

1) A thorough freshwater rinse. If you do nothing else, rinse your suit inside and out each and every time you use it, even if you’re planning a second session. Salt will destroy your suit faster than everything but direct sunlight. Save time by dousing yourself with a big jug of warm water after you get out of the water, but before you take your suit off, then when you get home rinse out the inside. Take the time to do this, every single time. Seriously.

2) Hang up your wetsuit properly. Not in the sun. Not draped over your car’s side mirror. Not slung over your balcony. And definitely not by the neck or shoulders; this will quickly stretch everything out. Take a plastic hanger, slide the top or bottom of the suit through, and hang it doubled-up, inside-out in the shower or the garage. Or somewhere in the shade if you absolutely must hang it outside.

3) Turn the suit inside out each day until it’s dry. So you’ve rinsed your suit out and hung it up inside-out like a responsible adult. Great. But if you don’t surf for a couple days, only the side of your suit facing outward will dry, leaving the other half marinating in a rubber-destroying moisture farm. Once the outward part of your suit is dry, flip it inside out again to dry the other side. This is a commonly overlooked routine that will greatly lengthen the life of your suit.

4) Use some wetsuit shampoo occasionally. No matter how thoroughly you rinse your suit, you’re going to miss some spots, letting salt collect in crevices where it will happily erode the warm, flexible, but infuriatingly fragile space-age neoprene that we spend all that money on. Fill up your wetsuit changing bucket with cool water and a few capfuls of whatever wetsuit cleaner you like, get it nice and sudsy, drop in your suit, then get your hands in there and knead the cleaner into the neoprene. Pay attention to the zipper too, you’ll want to keep that nice and clean and free of corrosion.

5) Banish the stink. Coffee before dawn patrol is mandatory. So is the automatic peeing that comes from downing all that caffeine. And coffee pee isn’t helping your suit smell any better at all. You can buy products like Mirazyme, specially made to flatten odors from bacteria and mildew in wetsuits, and add that to your wetusit shampoo regimen. Or you can use a little bit of Listerene instead. Works great.

6) Slow down when taking your suit off. Diagonal chest-zip suits are a godsend when it comes to sealing out water and improving comfort. But they are hell to take off. Trying to quicken the process by grabbing at any piece of rubber you can and ripping it from your body like an animal isn’t doing the neoprene any favors. Try not to use your thumbs when you’re pulling the top of the suit off. Don’t stand on one leg of your suit while trying to yank your foot out of the other. Especially not while grinding the suit into oily asphalt. Take it slow, apply pressure across a broad area when slinking out of the suit, and keep those seams happy.

Sunday, January 5, 2014

2013: My Year in Review

Eric Cedeno May 2013

At the end of 2011 I wasn’t feeling so good and I found one obvious reason, I hadn’t been surfing much. The more I surfed the happier I become. So I started tracking the days, surf locations, boards etc to remind myself of the good times I’ve had. It also served as a reminder to me to surf more often.  In 2013 my Total Days Surfed was  61. I will admit that 2013 was a good improvement over last year (2012) were my Total Days Surfed was only 44. I surf 81 times in 61 days during 2013, but mostly on the weekends.



January (Days Surfed 0)

I didn’t surf at all in January. Actually I had been sick since December and was still having a hard time recovering. I figured I should start eating healthier and hoped that would help turn things around for me. I wrote about it: How Bruce Lee Influenced My Hunger for Change... By Eric Cedeno

February (Days Surfed: 2)


Eric Cedeno February 2013
In late February I was trying to figure out what why I was so edgy and angry. It turns out the last time I had surfed was on 12-2-12. It was no wonder I was a wreck. I went back and looked at my notes for the year and tried to remember those good times out in the water that I felt like I was forgetting. I put in the effort and got two days in at my home break. It felt like a good start.

March (Days Surfed: 4)
Ave A, Redondo Beach 3-24-13 Photo By X-Man
I surfed on the first day March and then again towards the end of the month. I always dig it when X-Man takes pictures of me surfing. I always try and make the best out of whatever the surf has to offer and every once in a while I’ll get X-Man to capture a few pictures of me surfing.

April (Days Surfed: 8)
San Pedro 4-26-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno 
I got six days in at my home break and pretty much spend all the time riding my longboards. Looking back now it seems like I was gaining momentum by doubling the days I’d surfed each month. I even made a few trips down to San Pedro just to stack a few rocks.

May (31 days per month, Days Surfed: 15)
Eric Cedeno May 2013
Eric Cedeno May 2013
I surfed the most days of the year in May. I also surfed the most consecutive days in a row 10 days (5/24 thru 6/2). I know 10 days in a row doesn’t really sound that great, but it is a huge improvement from last year (2012) where most consecutive days surfed was only 3 days (5/1 thru 5/3). I spent most of time at my home break and rode a wide range of boards, I even did some bodysurfing.

June (Days Surfed: 6)
Sunset June 2013
I spend a lot of time at 26th street on my 9’0” longboard and would sometimes ride my 6’10” mini log. On 6/21 I caught wave of the day and got 3 in and outs (almost 4) on same wave overhead wave off the drain. I also got a few big waves out at Sunset Cliffs with a few friends.

July (Days Surfed: 4)


Manhattan July 2013
I had 6 surf sessions in 4 days. It was good practice, but overall it just didn’t compare to the previous months.

August (Days Surfed: 10)

Eric Cedeno August 2013
I spend some time surfing the east coast. I was able to sample a good range of surf in Cocoa Beach, FL (4 points). I picked up my longboard at Core Surf Shop. I asked if they would buy it back at the end if my trip and the said yes (minus $100 bucks or so). I was really stoked to ride a board that I know very well. cocoa beach pier (south side) longboard 2-3+. I did a quick surf check at the pier and it looked really fun out, sunny not much wind yet and pretty good shape. I called up my friend Lisa and she agreed to take some pictures of me surfing and meet me down at the pier with her canon 7d and big lenses. I put 3 hours of quarters in the parking meter just in case I got caught up having fun and loose track if time. The water was still warm but not as hot as it had been and I paddled out next to pier and sat in the line up with the other two surfers. I caught a good left and ran the nose and was dialed in after my first wave. I spent the next two hours catching waves and paddling back out. It was the most fun I think I've had all trip. Lisa shot photos from the beach and along the side of the pier- Good times!

September (Days Surfed: 2)


I got 3 local surf sessions in just two days. I took a good look at Mode of Transportation for Surf Exploration and now I really want a VW T5 California Van.

October (Days Surfed: 6)

Eric Cedeno October 2013
I scored a pretty amazing trip to Hawaii. I think the last time I surfed Oahu was about 15 years ago so I was very excited to get back home to Hawaii. I’m not really from Hawaii, but every time I leave Hawaii I feel like I’m leaving home. Maybe one day I’ll just stay home, in Hawaii for as long as it takes. I hooked up with a few close friends and surfed a few spots that I didn’t know existed. Also
caught a few remarkable waves. It definitely ranks up there as one of the best trips to Hawaii I ever had.

November (Days Surfed: 1)
Eric Cedeno November 2013
It’s always hard to get back into cold water after surfing somewhere tropical like Hawaii. Plus a few of my friends were getting bumped by sharks and I don't like that idea at all. Then I got a call from a friend who got a call from his friend that passed the word on down the line about a wherehouse wetsuit sale on the last day of the sale. I lucked out a scored a few suits. I got a new Vapor 4/3 and didn’t mind testing it out in the small walled surf. Wearing a new wetsuit in the water for the first time is like being stuck in traffic in a brand new car with heated seats and a great stereo. Somehow it just makes the things that usually annoy you seem far off. I had a good time and I think this is probably the best wetsuit I’ve ever had, and I’ve had lots over the years!

December (Days Surfed: 3)

December seemed like I had to work pretty hard at making the best of what I had. I got a few local surf sessions in and had a pretty good time enjoying the unseasonably hot Christmas weather. I really do love the SouthBay, it’s one of the few places in the USA that hit 80 degrees (F) on Christmas day. The water even warmed up a little to 58 degrees (F). I did score some awesome surf gear that I'm sure will prepare me for the Zombie Apocalypse.


FILM: Shaping Driftwood Surfboards (Via thesurfchannel.com)


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Blogger turned film director, Liv Williams, has produced a new documentary which follows surfboard shaper David Forsyth. Owner of Driftwood Surfboards, Forsyth uses both wood and recycled materials when creating his boards. He has teamed up with The Woodland Trust to donate a portion of each board’s profit back to planting and nurturing saplings until maturity across Britain.
The documentary follows Forsyth after returning home from Morocco and Sumatra where he traveled to test his boards’ performances in various conditions and climates. He also shares his plea to all shapers to become more environmentally responsible. Shot, directed, produced, and sound engineered entirely by Liv Williams, the final product of this documentary is set to welcome a whole new era of surfboard shaping.
Watch the entire film here:
Learn more about the film in this exclusive interview with Director and Producer Liv Williams.

The Surf Channel: What initially grabbed your interest about David’s shaping business?
Liv Williams: I’d been looking around for a new and interesting angle to the surf industry for a while and then I came across one of David’s business cards, made from wood and also doubling as a surf wax comb. When I learned about his affection for making boards from purely unwanted materials such as driftwood, old doors and wooden shingles/weatherboard, I was keen to find out what those boards might look like and how good a ride they’d give you!

What did you find the most unique or different about Driftwood Surfboards’ shaping process?
Williams: Most shapers use industry accepted materials to shape their boards, all pretty toxic and not good for the environment. In fact, it almost goes against what surfing is supposed to represent – man’s harmless interaction with nature, all that karmic vibe stuff, you know? David actively seeks out materials including resin which are much more kind to the environment. He works closely with environmental agencies like The Woodland Trust to source wood from environmentally sustainable wood and keeps his ear to the ground within the community about where other people’s unwanted wood is being thrown away. He then recycles as much as he can to create surfboards. I don’t know anyone else who works in this way.
driftwood surfboards, shaping, film
Driftwood Surfboards, made in the UK, hope to revolutionize the way shaping effects our environment. Photo:Driftwood Surfboards Facebook

What are your thoughts on environment-friendly shaping practices?
Williams: I’m all for anything which is better for the environment. It can only be a good thing. Our ecosystem is straining under the weight of too large a human population and the trash and toxic by-products we cast into our environment is a pretty obscene amount.
Polystyrene for example, one of the materials used in shaping boards, doesn’t decompose for hundreds of years and is floating all over our oceans and is extremely harmful to marine life. I think it’s great that there are people being inventive and taking a stand against harmful materials. It’s easy to turn a blind eye to all sorts of harmful things going on around us. It’s vital that we each take responsibility towards being less of a parasitical species on our incredible planet.


Liv is constantly posting updates on her blog and twitter, don’t forget to follow her @iLivExtreme and check out her blog here.