The Turning Point ...1994-95-96

I really got hooked on longboarding back in 1993 during my first trip to Hawaii (Read all about it here). When I made it back home I went down to Dive N Surf and bought a used longboard for $250. It had Astro-Deck covering the whole deck of the board like something Herbie Fletcher used to use, actually I think Herbie invented the stuff, but after a few months it started peeling off. After about a year of solid surfing there was only two sections left on the board. I pretty much dedicated all my time to riding just my longboard and joined the RUHS (Redondo Union High School) Surf Team my junior year (winter 1994-95). 

Eric Cedeno Hermosa Pier December 1994
Cover of Easy Reader (January 1995) 

I competed on the RUHS surf team my junior and senior year and surfed an average of 4 days a week, sometimes two or three times in the same day. I don't have that many pictures from back then because that was before digital cameras were affordable and if anyone actually took pictures you wouldn't know if there were any good pictures until that roll of film came back from processing. 

My Senior year I got first place 7 out of 9 contest and probably would have considered trying to become a pro-longboarder if my parents hadn't planned on kicking me out when I was eighteen. No joking, for my eighteenth birthday I got a box of Hefty trash bags to help me pack my stuff and a six-month grace period to find a new place to live.

It wasn't easy working full time and going to school full time, but somehow I made it work. It was better for me to be on my own than it would have been to be stuck on the battlefield at my parents house. After I moved out they gave it one last try and that lasted less than a year until they separated. My parents turned into something more like ketchup and ice-cream, great separate, terrible together.

Eric Cedeno Topaz Winter 1994-95

Eric Cedeno Topaz Winter 1994-95

The two pictures above were taken at Topaz in the winter of 1994-95. In my ROTC class we walked down to the beach for our final and I was the only one that brought a surfboard. It was head high and real fast. I had a disposable water camera in my bag and one one of the guys swam out and took these pictures of me. I only got to surf for about a hour and then had to go back to school to take my english final.

Eric Cedeno Hermosa Pier 1994-95
Photo By Jared Dastrup

Eric Cedeno Hermosa Pier 1994-95
Photo By Jared Dastrup

Eric Cedeno 3rd place All Star Competition 26th Street Manhattan Beach1995

At the end of every surf season all the local schools with surf teams compete against each other in the 'All Stars' surfing event. Not only do the surfers compete against the other schools and their surfers, but they also compete against the surfers on their own team as well. My first year on the Redondo Surf Team and I took third place for longboarding in the All Star meet at 26th street Manhattan in big over surf. 

Eric Cedeno El Porto, Manhattan Beach 5-14-1996

Photo By Stephan Sleeis

Tuesday 5-14-1996 El Porto 1-3' and Fair:

I had a heart attack when Steph and I arrived at the parking lot and he decided to go out. He forgot his leash so we took turns with the longboard. I'd have it for two waves and Steph would take pictures. Then we'd trade off and he'd have it for two waves. We used up a whole camera and got some good shots. Steph hanging 5, me hanging ten with my hands behind my head

The Best Surf Shots of Me This Summer...

6-30-12 Saturday Torrance Beach 1-3'+

My sister called me around 8:00 am and asked if I could watch my nephew X-Man for the day. "Sure-Sure no problem" I said. Then My friend Dust called me up and wanted to surf "Sure-Sure no problem, but have to pick up X-man first" I said. We were all a little hungry for breakfast so we picked up X-man and then we loaded up Dust's truck and headed for Eat at Joes in Redondo for Breakfast. I got my usual two eggs over medium, home fries and a side of biscuits and gravy. Back in high school I used to go to Eat at Joes for breakfast like four times a week, often enough that the waitresses would loan me money so I could get a bigger breakfast when I was short on cash.

After breakfast we cruised over to DiveNSurf so I could get X-man a spring suit, after all the water is still pretty chilly (even for a kid). I figured it would be easiest to go straight to Torrance and I'd pay for parking instead of waisting time trying to find on a spot on a weekend during summer, which everyone who lives around the beach knows is almost impossible at this time. I paid the $7 bucks for parking and we got a good spot next to the big ramp at the end of the lot. I brought a few cameras with me just in case I could talk Dust into taking some shot of me surfing (and he agreed to take a few shots). X-man and I suited up and we were ready to catch a few waves on the inside. X-man is still really new to surfing and has only been out a few times so we stayed on the inside where it was only about waist deep (chest deep if you are 10 years old). I pushed him into a few waves on my 7'10" noserider and we were both stoked. 

Eric Cedeno and X-Man Torrance Beach 6-30-12 by Dustin F. Meyer

Even with a spring suit on he was getting pretty cold so he decided to warm up on the sand and I went out to get a few waves. It was a little tricky out there but I made the best of it. Dust stayed on shore with my Canon EOS 20D on a tripod to take pictures and I was trying not to waste his time. Most of the waves just closed out, but every now and then a little wave would peak up and stay pretty clean. Dust got the best sequence shots of me that I have ever seen! Check it out-

Eric Cedeno Torrance Beach 6-30-12 by Dustin F. Meyer

Eric Cedeno Torrance Beach 6-30-12 by Dustin F. Meyer

Eric Cedeno Torrance Beach 6-30-12 by Dustin F. Meyer

I'm now hoping to get him to take pictures again when it's big out this winter. Stoked!

My goals of surfing are (#1) to have fun, (#2) stand up on each wave, (#3) ride the wave without falling and (#4) ride bigger waves.

I usually decide not to paddle out in surf in the 10 ft (3.048 M) to 15 ft (4.572 M) range or larger. I'd like to get more comfortable in that bigger surf range, but it takes training and practice. I found a cool short video of a group of surfers on the north West coast of USA charging big waves in cold water. Maybe one day I'll be able to ride big waves like these guys (in warmer water).

GoPro Big-Wave Addicts Episode 4

6-9-12 Saturday Ave A / Knob Hill 3-5’ (6’-10’+ faces):

I could tell the tide was still pretty high from the top of the hill at Avenue A overlooking the surf. The surf was breaking a little rolly and a little close to shore. As usual I had my choice of three different boards to pick from in my car. I chose my 9’0” longboard and suited up. I figured my longboard would do well in the rolly high tide surf, plus I could always change boards. There was no one else out in the surf and I tried to pick the best break as I walked down the ramp. I headed between Ave A and knob hill to a consistent right break. The surf was a lot bigger than it looked from on top of the hill and I took my time walking over to the spot that I picked to paddle out. I put my leash on and waited for the sets to pass and then I waited for another cycle of sets to pass.  I made the paddle out look easy and I think I didn’t even get my hair wet as I timed it just right.

The sets were much bigger than it looked from shore, easily 10 foot faces, some bigger. I reminded myself as I sat alone outside that I can swim under or over any big bad wave that might try and crush me. I caught a big set and found the waves were breaking faster than I thought but paddled back out for more. A few more waves and I was feeling pretty good about being out there. A few waves later I decided to change boards and take out my 6’10” mini-log. It was a good change as I could now duck-dive and still take off on the outside sets. I picked off a few good rights and found myself in the right spot for some good lefts. I took off on a macker and felt more like I was in Hawaii than in the South Bay. I made the big drop and flew down the line. Just as I was about to make it to the shoulder my board started to pearl and I quickly over adjusted and my back foot slipped off my board. I skimmed the hard water surface with my body without penetrating to safety while my left foot stuck on my board. The wave finally grabbed me and took me down. It was a relief to be held under without my left leg getting stretched even more in the wrong direction. 

I was in the impact zone and didn’t have much time to whine about my hip socket. After two more waves passed over me I grabbed my board and headed back out to the line-up. I caught a few more waves but was very aware that my hip socket was feeling some soreness and I didn’t want to cause more injury so I got out. I survived the session with only minor discomfort and decided to take it easy for the rest of the weekend. I felt like I had made some progress at getting a little more comfortable in larger surf, it was a good day after all.

I found a video of the morning surf at Torrance beach for 6-9-12... The tide was lower and the surf was a little smaller, but at least it'll give you an idea of how it was earlier in the day.