2023 was not an easy year for me. I was fighting injuries from a car accident from December 2022 and barely had the energy or stamina to go surfing. It was rough and me physically and it also took a toll on me emotionally. Luckily my wife is awesome and really helped pull me back to the water to get some waves an shots of me surfing each month. So here are a few of those shots from 2023.
Some days the surf look so terrible and unrideable that I almost jumped back in the car to go home and my wife would say something like, "I think you could get three waves. How about a quick 30 minutes surf session." She'd give me that 'You got this' smile and I'd paddle out and somehow find the waves that I needed.
Occasionally it would get big out and I'd get a few big sets. It wasn't always easy to dodge people out there, but I did my best to get back in the swing of things. Mixing things on lefts and rights, and changing up which boards I would ride. It was really good practice.
Some days were harder than others. My fun-ometer would run very low and even if I caught a bunch of waves my usual stoked smile wasn't always there on my face. Rebuilding the stoke is definitely something I want to work on in 2024. Honestly I'm already off to a great start. My wife and I built a 7'2" redwood surfboard together and we have already made plans to make a few other wooden surfboards to add to the quiver of stoke.
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