140 Miles Round Trip to Surf Two Breaks... By Eric Cedeno

This is how my day ended..

El Porto 5-2-13 By Eric Cedeno

This is how it started...

I heard from a few friends that there was going to be some fun head high surf down at O'fre on Thursday 5-2-2013 so I did what any good red blooded american would do... I took the day off work to go surf. I was going to car pool with my buddy Skip, but he wasn't returning my phone calls, text messages or smoke signals so I went with out him. He finally called me when I was almost half way down to San Clemente and said he was out side my place waiting for me. I said I couldn't wait any longer and was on my way down and that I'd call him and left him know how the surf was when I got there. 

Traffic was really bad in Huntington Beach on the 405 and I was averaging 7 miles an hour. I lost track of time more than once and wished I had left my house earlier. The traffic let up around Mac Author airport and I felt like was was gaining ground again. I slowed down just a little as I was nearing the last few exits. Time slowed as I was passing a cop sitting on the shoulder with his radar gun pointed in my direction. I saw him put the gun down and quickly merge into traffic. I was in the second lane (closest to the exiting /slow lane). The cop weaved his way through traffic and I thought I was a goner as I attempted to drive at 67 miles an hour. He was just two cars back and one lane farther over when a grey SUV speeded by and got just in front of me. To my left the cop put on his lights and I slowed down to 62, not sure if he was going to bust me or the guy in front of me. I cop got behind the other guy and pulled him over on my exit ramp. That was too close for comfort.

There was only four cars ahead of me in line and that meant the parking lot was full. It didn't take long for me to pay my $15 bucks to get in. As I drove down the hill I snapped a quick picture of the surf peeling.

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

The surf was clean and I could tell it was going to be a good time and was worth the drive after all. 

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

I found pretty good parking and was surprised that there weren't that many people out in the water. I heard that wind was off-shore earlier and yesterday it was best around 4:00 pm. I call Skip a few more times and took a few minutes to soak up some sun and decide on which board to take out. I brought my 9'0" longboard, 7'4" hybrid, 6'10" mini-log and the 6'4" new lost fish. I ended up going with my 9'0"it seemed right for the slow waves and long paddle. 

I surfed my 9'0" for about two hours and ran into Skip in the line up near "four doors." Actually I saw a lot of friends out there, Kimmy from 26th street manhattan, and a hand full of the boys from Torrance / Redondo including Mike Purpus (Southbay Pro-Surfer from the 60's and 70's). 

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

My arms were getting a little tired so I took a wave in and drank another liter of Smart-Water to rehydrate. Then I swapped boards and headed back out on my 6'10" mini-log. On my way out I was Mike shredding a nice right all the way to the inside were he pulled off and paddled right back out again. The I saw Skip killing it on his longboard, cut backs, off the lips really dialed in. It all motivated me to get out there quickly. I said hi the guys again and caught a good right with Mike Purpus in front of me. The wave was big enough to share and I was hitting the lip down the line as he was on the nose in style- awesome!

Eventually I paddled farther north and surfed that left that I saw when I first drove down the hill. That was the best spot for me. I caught some great sets thirty yards out past everyone else and really got my board moving, late take-offs, bit bottom turns, long off the lips. It was the best waves my board had seen in a long time.

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

After surfing for almost four hours straight I made my way back to my car and had to eat and rehydrate again. I was tired and took a nap in my car and listened to the rolling set waves thunder in every so often. Around 3:30 I decided not to paddle back out for another session, my arms were just too tired. I knew if I paddled back out then I might not have enough energy for the drive back home. So i sat in the sun just a little longer then packed up and headed out.

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

I snapped this quick picture on my way out, trestles was going off- all day. I'm sure it was a zoo over there. I was happy with what I got and headed for the freeway. 

San Onofre 5-2-13 Photo By Eric Cedeno

It was just as I was hoping that it wouldn't be... Lots of traffic, for miles, 7 miles an hour again, stop, go. people cutting others off to try and get ahead just to be passed again. It took over two hours to get near my home and by then I was pissed off, traffic does that to me. So I stayed on the 405 for a little longer and got off on the 105 freeway and headed straight for El Porto. 

El Porto 5-2-13 By Eric Cedeno

I figured the swell would be smaller here than O'fre but still still be the best spot in the southbay for this swell direction. Plus I had a few hours to rest up in traffic. The surf was 2-3 foot and a little mushy at first, but I got better and the lefts were holding up pretty good. I surf for another hour and a half before going in.

El Porto 5-2-13 By Eric Cedeno

I guess there was a fire going and the smoke was covering up the sun as it was setting. It made for a good picture, but I couldn't help but worry about the people that live closer to that area. Hope they are all ok. I'll keep you posted-