Sandbagging Jimmy Chin.... And getting that first barrel!

 I love this short film! If you are new to surfing (or new-ish) then you must watch this wonderful short film about Jimmy Chin getting his first barrel. 

YETI Presents: Sandbagging Jimmy Chin

YETI

By most anyone’s standards, Jimmy has done it all: climbed and skied Everest, crossed Chang Tang Plateau on foot, and won an Academy Award. But when he’s asked if there is anything he still wants to do in his life, his response is “get barreled.” With the help of renowned surfers Mark Healey, Jon Rose, Jeff Johnson, and Keith and Dan Malloy, Jimmy heads into the biggest waves of his life to find his barrel moment. Directing team of: Dan Malloy, Keith Malloy, Jeff Johnson, Scott Ballew, Jimmy Chin, Taylor Johns, Mark Healey Producers: Taylor Johns and Brett Williams Edited by: Andrew Schoneberger Director of Photography: Erin Fienblatt Editor: Andrew Schoneberger Assistant Editor: Tate Larrick Music By: Todd Hannigan, Nick Coventry, Weeed Sound Design & Mix: Todd Hannigan At Brotheryn Studios Still Photographer: Jeff Johnson Color Grading: Clinton K. Hollister | Arlington Peak

 

This short film really captures the feelings of over coming the fear of surfing big waves. Check it out!

Surfing BIG Waves! What's it really like? w/ John John Florence (Hawaii)

The Smith Brothers

Koa Smith gives an in-depth breakdown of an outer reef big wave surf session with John John Florence. From getting caught inside, to water safety and conquering fears, get an inside look and more in this exciting video! Be the first to see our new merch: https://www.smithbrothershawaii.com/p... Special thanks to Erik Knutson and Parallel Sea for providing the footage for this episode.

Craziest SANDBAR In The WORLD!... you tell me....Is it?

 

This is a great series of short videos from Brett Barley. Check it out:

Craziest SANDBAR In The WORLD!

Brett Barley

--Season 2 : Episode 45-- Cape Point out in Buxton, NC is one of the most special places in the world. From a right point, to a left point, to A-Frame shorebreak wedges... It is one of the most rare of waves when it sets up just right, because even then it is usually short lived. Cape Hatteras is shaped the way it is, along with the pinnacle of Cape Point, due to the Labrador Current and Gulf Stream current colliding directly offshore. Is there a more dynamic sandbar in the world?!

The Endless Summer II (the full movie on youtube)

 

I must have seen this movie over a hundred times! Such a classic and a wonderful adventure chasing waves around the world. Check it out:

The Endless Summer II

Leo Vias

The Endless Summer II

Music in this video

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Song

Surfdoggin'

Artist

Gary Hoey

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Song

Walkin' The Nose

Artist

Gary Hoey

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Song

Sweet Water

Artist

Gary Hoey

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Song

La Rosa Negra

Artist

Gary Hoey

Writers

Gary Hoey

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Song

Riptide

Artist

Gary Hoey

Writers

Gary Hoey

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Song

Suite (From "Lawrence Of Arabia")

Artist

The Philharmonia

Album

The Essential Maurice Jarre Film Music Collection

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Maurice Jarre

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Song

Blast [Live]

Artist

Gary Hoey

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Wipe Out (Hit Version / Extended Ending)

Artist

The Surfaris

Writers

Bob Berryhill, Jim Fuller, Patrick Connolly, Ron Wilson

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Song

Drive

Artist

Gary Hoey

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Gary Hoey

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Low Rider [Live]

Artist

Gary Hoey

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Skeleton Bay... A cool short film

 

Mirage: The ever-changing story of Skeleton Bay

Now Now

Mirage A short film about the origin and evolution of Skeleton Bay. Since it was unveiled in 2008, the wave at Skelton Bay has become part of every surfer's lexicon, a synonym for never-ending sand bottomed tubes. But unlike Pipeline, G-Land, or [insert your preferred iconic world class wave here], the two-kilometre-long left on the edge of the Namib Desert is in a constant state of flux. If satellite imagery is anything to go by, the wave we know today didn’t even exist 30 years ago. Mirage is a 15-minute documentary that traces the genesis of the Namibian sandspit and how it became one of the most sought after waves on the planet, as told by pioneering locals and some of the best tube riders in the world. But before you put it on the top of your post-pandemic bucket list, perhaps take heed of Koa Smith’s veiled advice from the film: “People think oh, easy, Skeleton Bay. I’m going to go get the barrel of my life. But then they show up here and realise it’s more like Teahupoo on sand.” For any media queries, please contact: Alan van Gysen or Will Bendix - anownowproduction@gmail.com

Celebrating the Life of Mike Shurely

I've been pretty quiet most of this year and a lot of that had to do with my good friend and surf mentor Mike Shurley passing away. And with all this virus stuff going around and the new “Social distancing” we surfers can’t celebrate life the way that we love. We can’t get together, hold hands, cry on each other’s shoulders and paddle out like we have done for so many of our friends and family that have passed away over the years.

Many of us are now in self imposed isolation in an attempt to slow the spread of the virus. The beaches are getting shut down too. A traditional paddle out can still be done in the future, but let’s hold off on that for now to keep each other safer. Please show your support to your friends and family that may have passed away during this global pandemic any way you can (but try not to leave your home).

“I’m just a man trying to catch a few waves. How about you?”

-Mike Shurley.

I met Mike Shurely back in 2004 when my new friend Cliff Makaena first introduced me to the 26th street Ohana surf club. Everyone knows Mike as “The Mayor” and I was never really sure if he was the Mayor of the city, the surf club, the parking lot at the beach or everything. He had that knack for being so well tempered, well-spoken, a charmer and could just connect with anyone. He worked his butt off so he could retire early and have the opportunity to surf every day, and at the best tides. His life revolved around family and surfing. 

 

Even when things got rough he continued to have a grateful outlook and was happy. Surfing makes room for happiness. It forces the surfer to focus on the present, every detail all at once and that leaves no room for land locked worries. The water washes off the bull shit, the nightmares, and the residue of worry. The water holds a space for you to be you. Mike knew this too and looked forward to paddling out and washing off any leftover negativity. Doing that consistently (as he did) seemed to always push more positivity, happiness and gratefulness into his life, by washing away stressors with each surf session.

 

At a certain point a surfer washers away enough bullshit that the internal balance can finally shift to happiness. Once that happens there is new room for gratefulness and a new opportunity to give back. Giving back means doing something for someone else without expecting anything in return. Giving back to the ocean, to the community, to friends, to strangers.

 

I once met up with Mike at Camp Pendleton Wounded Warrior Olympics trails were we added lifeguard support to the Jimmy Miller Memorial Foundation (JMMF). The JMMF is a team of supportive experts and volunteers that provide Surfing/ Water therapy to military personnel and their families. I’ve always wanted to support something like that but didn’t know where or how to begin. Mike told me how to get connected, but went even further and met me down that at the front gate that day so I could just followed him in. The he introduced me to everyone in his diplomatic surf fashion. Everyone was great, the day was sunny and warm (but not too hot or windy). I remember sitting way outside the surf break with a soldier and he was just smiling. He said that he doesn’t get to surf very often but when he does it feels like he is really home. I could tell he had a moment of peace right then. That all the weight was off his shoulders and there was still space for happiness to return to him.

 

Let me attempt to explain some surfing philosophy as not everyone knows this stuff (not everyone surfs). The highest achievement any surfer can ever attain is an attitude of happiness and gratitude in and out of the water.  This comes (* in part) from doing the things that are not easy, like waking up early when you had the choice to sleep in, paddling out in the winter when the water feels like ice water and putting time into things that you are not yet good at. Even catching waves in Manhattan Beach (the Southbay) is very challenging. Some of the fastest waves in the world break on our beaches and learning to ride them is extremely difficult. If you can ride these waves you can pretty much surf anywhere in the world (generally speaking). There are many potential obstacles just as there are many potential benefits.

 

Surfing is filled with opportunities for happiness, when you show up! And just so you know, Mike showed up consistently! He usually got prime parking where he didn’t have to worry about paying the parking meter in the parking lot at 26th St after 8 am. Often you could find him and few others at Larry’s bench checking out the spots between the 26th St tower and the “Drain.” Catching up, sipping coffee, laughing, getting each other a little more pumped to paddle out before it got crowded. 

There are all sorts of surfers. Some paddle out and just sit there (for hours) and nothing really seems to change. Others seems to be moving along with currents, matching the rhythms of the ocean with a dream like playfulness.  Mike was always hungry for surf and it showed in his smile and his gratitude. He would always make time to talk (well maybe you’d have to wait till he paddled back out after catching another good wave). I’d spot him out there and paddle over to him to catch up on things (plus he was always in a good spot for peaky waves). “Morning Mike, how you doing?” I’d ask. And he would always the same thing with that kid like smile, “I’m just a man trying to catch a few waves. How about you?”

 

I’d say the same thing back, “I’m just a man trying to catch a few waves.” Maybe it was just something he and I would say to each other, but it always made us both laugh (it still makes me laugh). I feel like that was part of his philosophy about surfing; Show up consistently, add more happiness with every opportunity, and give back when you can. All of that added to Mike’s attitude of happiness and gratitude in and out of the water.

Since the beaches were closed at the time I had a paddle out in my backyard to get wet and honor my buddy and mentor Mike Shurely...